Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Vid: Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva in North America

Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva spent four months in fall 2008 traveling western North America (the pair are from Belgium) with their climbing gear, a mandolin, a tin whistle and a penchant for hitchhiking. From Squamish to the Bugaboos to Yosemite to Indian Creek they did bold
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Film: Belayer to the Stars

Andy Arts lives in Canmore. Few may recognize his name, but he has been an instrumental part of many important sends.  Watch this 15-minute film, which includes cameos from Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard, Sonnie Trotter, Sharon Wood, Kevin Doyle and many more, as Arts takes us on the
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Two New Bold Winter Routes on Remote Peak

The Canadian Rockies have had an unusually low snow fall for November and the result has been stable backcountry conditions. This has allowed keen climbers to find often inaccessible new routes. Jay Mills, owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG), teamed up Steve Holeczi
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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New Rockies Mixed Route: Warm Wet Comfort

Kris Irwin and Jay Mills have climbed a new one-pitch mixed route above Emerald Lake in the Rockies. Irwin, owner of Rockies Ice and Alpine Specialists, and Mills, owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides, teamed up for the first ascent of this moderate, fun looking mixed route
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New Bugaboos Route by Olson and McAllister

Jen Olson and Tim McAllister have established a new route on the South Howser Tower. The great weather has led to excellent autumn conditions in the alpine. Olson and McAllister climbed Ethereal D+ 320 m M6 WI4R on Oct. 10, 2014. The new route climbs a nearly direct line up the
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Fall in the Bugaboos: Alpine mixed!

The Bugaboos in eastern B.C. had one of their busiest summers and it seems the rush isn’t over yet. Bryce Brown, Juan Henriquez and Jorge Ackermann recently climbed Perma Grin M5, WI4R, D+ on the South Howser Tower. Brown wrote on his social media, “The route
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New 10-pitch route near Golden B.C.

New route in B.C. will certainly draw climbers east of the divide and from near-by Golden. Andrea Eitle and Cody Lank have completed a new 10-pitch 5.11 called Gorman Gold. The crux is 5.11b and takes a direct line up an aesthetic tower and links into an upper corner system
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Achilles Spire: Big 5.8 Rockies Route

Achilles Spire was established in 2012, but few know about it. For those in the know, it is one of the finer 13-pitch bolted 5.8 routes. Achilles Spire has 300 metres of relatively easy climbing. It was established by Eric Dumerac, Sid Cupido and Chad Casey on September 7, 2012.
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Rockies: Ishbel’s stunning new corner climb

Rauri Macfarlane and Liam Savage climbed the impressive West Slabs of Mount Ishbel. Mount Ishbel is popular to Rockies climbers as the mountain with a large rock scar. As half of the mountain has fallen away over the years (a tourist attraction with a pull-out on the Trans Canada
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