Gripped Magazine

Rockies

First Japanese Ascent of The Wild Thing

The Wild Thing is one of the Rockies’ most classic alpine routes. First climbed in 1987, the most recent and first Japanese ascent was by Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani.   During the third week of Apil, Toshiyuki and Tani made what was likely the 12th ascent of the
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Watch a Send of Jason Lives at Back of the Lake

Watch Nathan Leblanc-Limoges climbing a classic 5.12d/13a at Lake Louise.  Jason Lives is a classic sport route at the quartzite crag, Back of the Lake, at Lake Louise. It was first climbed by Marc Dube in 1990. With only six bolts, you have to stick clip the first two off a
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Skiers Find Bold Line on South Goodsir

With stable spring conditions and countless unskied lines, Ian Button and Trevor Sexsmith ventured to the remote South Goodsir 3,562 metres. Ian Button has dozens of first descents and is not stranger to the topography of the Rockies. He would never call himself a
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Mount Temple’s Sphinx Face Skied by Colin Haley

Colin Haley and Rob Smith are no strangers to the Canadian Rockies. During the last week of March, they climbed the icefield on the Sphinx Face on Mount Temple and Colin Haley skied down. Mount Temple has been called the Eiger of the Rockies because of their similar size, terrain
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Early Season Sends on Bow Valley Rock

There is still skiing to be had, ice fat and climbable, but on the Bow Valley’s south facing rock walls, it’s game on for rock climbers. Of course with the sun comes the ticks and they’ve been out in full force. Nearly every climber has reported having at least
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New Rockies WI6 Pillar Climbed

Despite it being March, ice climbing season is far from over. Across Canada, cool temps are keeping climbs in prime shape. On March 10, 2015, Maury Perreault, Scott Stenz and Tim Banfield traveled along Commonwealth Creek, up to Smuts Pass, down to Birdwood Lakes, up the unnamed
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Rarely Climbed Stanley Headwall Route Repeated

The Stanley Headwall was the focus of winter mixed new routing during the late-90s and many of the original Sean Isaac, Shawn Huisman and Dave Thomson routes see rare repeats because of their “old school” nature. The Stanley Headwall in Kootenay National Park is one
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Video: Climbing Sea of Vapors WI6

Sea of Vapors is one of the world’s most notorious grade six ice climbs. Found high on Mount Rundle’s Trophy Wall, the route forms regularly and has become a must-climb classic. On Jan. 23, Tyler Davidson and Jean Peloquin climbed Sea of Vapors. The route had a number
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New Rockies Ice Climb in Kananaskis Country

The Canadian Rockies have had a mild winter with little snow. This has opened the doors to ice climbs, otherwise too dangerous to access because of avalanches, to be climbed. A few of the keenest new-routers have been Steven Kovalenko, Maurice Perrault and Josh Boisse. In early
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Slipstream 2015 Gallery

Slipstream is one of the world’s most famous ice climbs. At nearly 1,000 metres from glacier to summit, the modest WI4+ grade is trumped by the commitment, and objective hazards. First climbed in 1979 by Jim Elzinga and the late John Lauchlan, it is known by many as the
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