Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Top Canadian Sends of 2015

Here is a short list of some of the big sends that made headlines in 2015. Canadians crushed in 2015, from alpine and big-wall climbing to cragging and bouldering they aimed high, and more than once made international headlines for sends in Canada and abroad. We are lucky that
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New Steep Mixed Pitch in the Ghost

The Ghost is one of Canada’s most popular winter climbing locations and is located near Calgary. Reuben Marsden and Ross Suchy added a new pitch to Candle Stick Maker, which is found at Orient Point. Candle Stick Maker is a 150-metre WI5, which rarely forms as a complete
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Rockies Ice, Tainted Love, Rectal Squirrels and Grizzly Bears

Big new routes and grizzly bear attacks have made for an exciting week in the Canadian Rockies. In the spring of 2008, Jon Walsh and Raphael Slawinski made the first ascent of Dirty Love V M7 on Mount Wilson, it was Walsh’s third attempt and Slawinski’s first. It is
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Watch Ouellet and McCormick Make FA in Bugaboos

In 2012, Jean-Pierre Ouellet and Matt McCormick made the first ascent of The Wandering Direct 5.11R in the Bugaboos. Ouellet is currently climbing ice in the Canadian Rockies, be sure to follow him on Instagram here. By Jean-Pierre Ouellet Matt McCormick and I spent two weeks in
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Top Climbers Visit and Send Rockies Ice

The ice climbing season is in full swing in the Canadian Rockies and many top climbers have been busy swinging tools into early season ice. The U.K. team of Nick Bullock and Greg Boswell, who have climbed many hard Canadian routes on previous trips, are currently based in
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Six Rockies Classic WI6 Ice Climbs

For forty years, the Rockies have been a world-class ice climbing destination and in the words of Bugs Mckeith,"(In the ) winter of 72-73 the seeds were planted of what was to blossom into one of the most exciting things that has happened in the Rockies since the big peadks were
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Watch an Ascent of a Steep Ice Route in the Ghost Valley

Peter Valchev and Jason Wilcox visited the Ghost River Valley in Alberta a few years ago and climbed a classic ice route. “We first climbed a short pillar formed to the left of Hidden Dragon and then hiked up to the Candlestick Maker, a series of two freestanding pillars of
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Early Season Ice Accidents Remind Us To Play Safe

One close call and one accident resulting in numerous injuries are reminders to play safe this winter.  On Murchison Falls WI4+ on the Icefields Parkway, two climbers were rappelling at the end a day last week. On the final rappel, one climber forgot to clip into the anchor and
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Crazy! Ice Climber Rides Falling Pillar, Walks Away Unharmed

Sub-Zero explores the souls of four top Canadian ice climbers and in this short film, we meet John Freeman.  A few years ago, Freeman was soloing a slender and steep pillar of ice on the Icefields Parkway in Alberta. As he was about to transition onto safer ground, the
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New Jasper Rock Climbing Guidebook

Francois Laplante has put in thousands of hours over the past few years to produce a new guidebook to the Jasper area. This is the first modern rock climbing guidebook to Jasper, which many would agree is long overdue. Laplante started from scratch and then met a few locals who
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