Gripped Magazine

Rockies

New Big Alpine Mixed Route in Rockies

Ian Welsted, Maarten Van Haeren and Jay Mills have have made the first ascent of Canoeing to Cuba on Mount Storm in the Canadian Rockies. The route is named in in honour of the former Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau’s attempt to canoe to visit Castro in Cuba.
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Canadians Send Hard Routes in Autumn Temps

From coast to coast, Canadians have been busy sending boulders and hard sport routes this month. Climbers have been taking advantage of the fall weather windows to tick their long-standing projects. In the Grand Wall Boulders, Jamie Finlayson, who recently had a baby boy, sent
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Watch an Ascent of Man Yoga in B.C.

Jon Walsh and Jonny Simms established Man Yoga on the Stanley Headwall in 2011. The difficult mixed route goes at M8 and climbs 250 metres. Walsh wrote on his blog that Man Yoga “may involve scratching around, getting pumped mentally and physically above natural protection
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Sonnie Trotter’s First Ascent of Yamnuska’s Hardest Route

Yamnuska is one of the most iconic peaks in Canada and Sonnie Trotter has established the mountain’s hardest route to date. In 2001, Shep Steiner and Todd Guyn made the first free ascent of the first three pitches of Verstiegenheit on the west end of Yamnuska (Yam). Three
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New Bugaboos Mixed Route on South Howser

On October 16, Takeshi Tani and Toshiyuki Yamada climbed a new route on the South Howser in the Bugaboos. Their new route is one of the most obvious in the range and surprisingly had been left unclimbed. Tim McAllister, a Bugaboos regular, had visited the area twice in the past
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Big New Alpine Sport Route in Rockies Looks Wild

A seven-pitch 5.11d sport route that was recently sent on the Stanley Headwall looks like an adventure. The Stanley Headwall in British Columbia is known for its winter mixed and ice climbs. It has been featured countless times in guidebooks, magazine and in films for its winter
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Watch Top Climbers Send in the Bugaboos

The towering granite spires of the Bugaboos in the Purcell Range of Interior B.C. are legendary for classic big-wall climbs in a remote and stunning location. Known as one of the greatest alpine playgrounds in all of North America, Bugaboo Provincial Park holds a long list of
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New Three-Pitch Slab Crag on Banff’s Sulphur Mountain

Sulphur Mountain is a tourist attraction in Banff for its gondola ride to the summit and now has a new three-pitch alpine crag. The west-facing crag called Sistine Slab is high on Sulphur Mountain near Banff and while it is often windy, it gets plenty of sun. There are currently
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The Apocalypse Cave is Difficult New Rockies Crag

Evan Hau has been hard at work developing a new crag in the Bow Valley. The Apocalypse Cave is on Grotto Mountain in the Bow Valley. Grotto Mountain has hundreds of pitches of quality climbing, from sport routes in Grotto Canyon and Cougar Creek to steep 5.13s at Bataan and 5.14s
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Hard Rockies Send by Zak McGurk at Acephale

In the summer of 2014, Josh Muller sent a Lev Pinter project at Acephale and Zak McGurk just got the second ascent. By Josh Muller Zak (Midnight) McGurk took down the unrepeated Acephale line called First Flight 5.14c, one of the country’s hardest routes, in fading light on
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