Gripped Magazine

Rockies

NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire

The Bugaboos are home to dozens of world-class alpine granite lines, one of the most-climbed is the North East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. The ridge was first climbed in 1958 by Dave Craft, David Isles, Richard Sykes and John Turner; Joe Buszowski and Bernhard Ehmann made the first
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Difficile Monster, a Storm Creek Consolation

Storm Creek Headwall parallels the famous Stanley Headwall, one valley south, in B.C. The Storm Creek Headwall has a number of classic ice and mixed climbs. Climbers have added a number of moderate to hard lines over the years. In 2004, the routes Xena M5, 100 m, Cosban M5, 100
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The Peach

Raphael Slawinski and Grant Meekins made the first ascent of an impressive bolt-free mixed line, The Peach, WI5, M8. Slawinski was so stoked about the route he later returned with Jerome Yerly to make the second ascent, Wiktor Skupinski joined to film the action. The video deftly
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Ascend – Smith Rocks

ASCEND // Climbing in Smith Rock, Oregon from Austin Harris on Vimeo.
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Sub-Zero, Rockies Ice Teaser

This new series from Lukasz Warzecha explores the esoteric art of ice climbing and examines the souls of four of the sport’s most respected artists – Will Gadd, Raphael Slawinski, John Freeman, and Gordon McArthur. On these athletes’ doorsteps, the Rockies hold
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Yamabushi

Yamabushi, Yamnuksa, 5.13a, 300 metres In about 1999 Raphael Slawinski and Will Gadd started work on a new line on the last major buttress of Yamnuska without a route on it. It took 11 more trips up on the wall, but in the end they finished off what Gadd considers the best rock
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Sea of Vapors

Sea of Vapors is the must-climb route on Banff’s Trophy Wall. The Trophy Wall needs no introduction. Its position above Banff, history, reputation, and route difficulty and exposure have elevated the wall to world-class status. The wall has a number of ice and mixed routes,
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East End Boys, 5.12

East End Boys, 5.12, is a classic Yamnuska route first climbed in the 80s by Bill Betts and Steve DeMaio. The route climbs 200 metres up an aesthetic crack system. East End Boys from Joshua Lavigne on Vimeo.
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Polar Circus, WI5, 700 m

Polar Circus, on Cirrus Mountain in the Rockies, is one of the most famous ice routes, anywhere. The location, accessibility, length, grade and history have elevated the route to classic status. Polar Circus has 700 metres of elevation gain with 500 metres being waterfall ice.
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Ice Climbs on Cascade Mountain

Only minutes from Banff and close to Canmore, Cascade Mountain has a number of classic ice climbs on its eastern, lower tier of Palliser limestone. The obvious flow is called Cascade Falls, WI3, 300 m. The majority of the route is a low angled ramble up WI2. The final two pitches
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