Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Mount Logan Success, Storms and Helicopters

In May and June, three highly experienced climbers were attempting to traverse Mount Logan. After reaching the summit they were forced to spend a week above 5,000 metres in snow caves until a helicopter picked them up. Bryce Brown and his two partners flew on May 16 from the
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Watch Climbing Mount Robson’s Kain Face

Mount Robson’s Kain Face is one of the most sought-after moderate alpine faces in Canada. In 2014, Max and Charlie Nuttelman made an ascent of the classic wall, which was first climbed in 1913 by Conrad Kain and his clients, McCarthy and Foster. It’s a 20-pitch alpine
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Check Out the Splitters at Chile’s “Indian Creek”

On an expedition to Rio Loa in 2012, Juan and Diego Señoret showed off a new area of trad climbing with perfect hand, fist and finger cracks about 30 metres tall. It is located in San Pedro de Atacama, near the town of Taira, Chile. “Rio Loa” Rock Climbing.
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Two New Routes on Ha Ling Peak in Rockies

Ha Ling Peak has a number of worthwhile routes ranging from the classic Northeast Face 5.6 to the newer route, A Particular Manner of Expression 5.12. In June, 2015, Jay Mills climbed two new routes. The routes are left of the Northeast Face route and they both share around 140
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Deconstructing Jenga: Hard New Route on Baffin’s Great Cross Pillar

Americans, David Allfrey and Cheyne Lempe, have climbed a new route on Baffin Island at the start of what promises to be a busy summer on Baffin Island. Allfrey and Lempe are two of America’s strongest big wall climbers. During May, the pair climbed a new route on Great
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Evan Hau Sends Another New 5.14 in Rockies

Evan Hau is a Calgary-based climber who is among the top sport climbers in the country. He is spending his summer finding and sending some of the Bow Valley’s last hard projects.  While on his journey to find Canada’s first 5.15a, Hau’s been busy putting down
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First Ascent of an Albertan V10 by Matt Lucas

Matt Lucas is no stranger to hard bouldering problems and he recently opened a new crag in Kananaskis Country with fellow Calgary climbers. Their new crag is dubbed Crows Nest and is located across from Nakiska Ski Resort in Kananaskis Country, AB. Joined by Marc Eveleigh and
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John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
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Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
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Japanese Team Climbs Mount Temple’s Snowy North Face

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani are Japanese climbers currently based in the Canadian Rockies.  The two alpinists have been making quick work of some of the area’s most classic big alpine routes. A few weeks ago, they made a rare ascent of The Wild Thing 1,300 m M7 WI5 on
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