Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Americans Climb Yamnuska Test-Piece: Blue Jeans 5.13

Americans Josh Wharton and Hayden Kennedy climb Yamnuska’s Blue Jeans 5.13. Wharton had visited the steep Yamnuska route twice before, but it was Kennedy’s first go. Neither climber is a stranger to the Canadian Rockies as both have ticked a number of the area’s
Read More

The Route: Hot Fuzz and Sharknado on Kanga South

The Canadian Rockies have more stone than climbers know what to do with. You only needs to stand on a summit and look in any direction to know there’s lifetimes of new routes. Sometimes, however, you need only step out of the car to find new lines. Gripped editor Brandon
Read More

Dan Beland Sends Skaha Test-Pieces

Dan Beland has been on a tear in Skaha over the last few weeks. Sending some of the area’s hardest routes, the Victoria, B.C. climber recently sent his last project of his trip. Skaha has been busy this spring with near-perfect weather and excellent climbing conditions.
Read More

First Japanese Ascent of The Wild Thing

The Wild Thing is one of the Rockies’ most classic alpine routes. First climbed in 1987, the most recent and first Japanese ascent was by Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani.   During the third week of Apil, Toshiyuki and Tani made what was likely the 12th ascent of the
Read More

Watch a Send of Jason Lives at Back of the Lake

Watch Nathan Leblanc-Limoges climbing a classic 5.12d/13a at Lake Louise.  Jason Lives is a classic sport route at the quartzite crag, Back of the Lake, at Lake Louise. It was first climbed by Marc Dube in 1990. With only six bolts, you have to stick clip the first two off a
Read More

Skiers Find Bold Line on South Goodsir

With stable spring conditions and countless unskied lines, Ian Button and Trevor Sexsmith ventured to the remote South Goodsir 3,562 metres. Ian Button has dozens of first descents and is not stranger to the topography of the Rockies. He would never call himself a
Read More

Mount Temple’s Sphinx Face Skied by Colin Haley

Colin Haley and Rob Smith are no strangers to the Canadian Rockies. During the last week of March, they climbed the icefield on the Sphinx Face on Mount Temple and Colin Haley skied down. Mount Temple has been called the Eiger of the Rockies because of their similar size, terrain
Read More

Early Season Sends on Bow Valley Rock

There is still skiing to be had, ice fat and climbable, but on the Bow Valley’s south facing rock walls, it’s game on for rock climbers. Of course with the sun comes the ticks and they’ve been out in full force. Nearly every climber has reported having at least
Read More

New Rockies WI6 Pillar Climbed

Despite it being March, ice climbing season is far from over. Across Canada, cool temps are keeping climbs in prime shape. On March 10, 2015, Maury Perreault, Scott Stenz and Tim Banfield traveled along Commonwealth Creek, up to Smuts Pass, down to Birdwood Lakes, up the unnamed
Read More

Rarely Climbed Stanley Headwall Route Repeated

The Stanley Headwall was the focus of winter mixed new routing during the late-90s and many of the original Sean Isaac, Shawn Huisman and Dave Thomson routes see rare repeats because of their “old school” nature. The Stanley Headwall in Kootenay National Park is one
Read More

Gripped Subscription