Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Big New Ice Routes in Waiparous Valley

Few climbers visit Alberta’s Waiparous Valley for climbing, in summer or winter, but as Antonio Nicola and Maurice “Maury” Perreault found out, it’s worth the effort. The three new Waiparous climbs are in the first drainage north of Kemosabe and Ice Funnel. Antonio
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Bold New Rockies Mixed Route

From the team who brought winter climbers the route Man Yoga, comes their latest addition to bold winter mixed climbing: Kahveology. Jon Walsh and Jonny Simms are no strangers to pushing it on frozen walls. Their most recent outing found them climbing the new Kahveology (the
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Kris Irwin Climbing Happy Days WI6+X

Kris Irwin and Marc Delesalle are two of Canada’s leading ice guides. When not ropegunning clients, they’re running it out on Rockies’ testpieces. Watch Kris Irwin climb the barely and rarely formed Happy Days WI6+X. New Zealand Alpine Team Visits Rockies
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Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter’s Big Canadian Route

In 2011, Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter teamed up for the unclimbed east face of Banff’s Mount Louis. In light of the Dawn Wall, we are sharing this video from 2011 about Caldwell and Trotter establishing The Shining. Trotter and Caldwell redpointed The Shining 5.13c/d,
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Bugaboo’s Sunshine Crack

One of the most climbed and most enjoyed routes in the Bugaboos. It follows a continuous crack system for almost 300 metres and has everything from fingers to offwidth. This route is on the north side of Snowpatch Spire and is easy to spot, just look for the offwidth. Head up the
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Rock Route: Another Hot Attraction

Patrick Jones and friends travel to Alberta’s Ghost during October 2014. They climb Another Hot Attraction, a six-pitch 5.11 route that has bolts, but takes good gear on the trad pitches. Great varied climbing on decent rock. Protection is great for Canadian Rockies
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Vid: Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva in North America

Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva spent four months in fall 2008 traveling western North America (the pair are from Belgium) with their climbing gear, a mandolin, a tin whistle and a penchant for hitchhiking. From Squamish to the Bugaboos to Yosemite to Indian Creek they did bold
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Film: Belayer to the Stars

Andy Arts lives in Canmore. Few may recognize his name, but he has been an instrumental part of many important sends.  Watch this 15-minute film, which includes cameos from Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard, Sonnie Trotter, Sharon Wood, Kevin Doyle and many more, as Arts takes us on the
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Two New Bold Winter Routes on Remote Peak

The Canadian Rockies have had an unusually low snow fall for November and the result has been stable backcountry conditions. This has allowed keen climbers to find often inaccessible new routes. Jay Mills, owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG), teamed up Steve Holeczi
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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