Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Aerial Footage of a Bugaboo Classic

Luke Humphrey’s most recent online film is a nicely produced video of the classic Bugaboo route, the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. Considered “the best 5.4 in the world,” the B.C. route gets dozens of ascents every season. The 500-metre-long ridge has sticky
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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Evan Hau Sends Hard New Rockies Route

The Canadian Rockies have thousands of sport routes, but with so much untouched rock it’s easy to find new and esthetic routes close to home. Calgary-based crusher Evan Hau recently found a new wall to develop and called it the Apocalypse Cave. The first route Hau developed
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New Long Moderate Rock Route in Jasper

Alberta’s Bedson Ridge gets a new route on surprisingly solid limestone. Jesse Milner and Ryan Titchener climbed Cypress Hill 5.10bR during the first week of July. The seven-pitch 400-metre route climbs the well-known Bedson Ridge about 50 kilometres east of Jasper.
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Four Bighorn Highway Alpine Rock Moderates

The Bighorn Highway has long been an Alberta go-to climbing destination. Bighorn Highway is the name given to the 66-kilometre Highway 40 in Kananaskis Country that runs north to south from Barrier Mountain to King Creek. Kananaskis Country is a system of 10 provincial parks in
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10 Great Ascents in Canada From the Past Century

No better way to celebrate Canada Day than to look back at 100 years and 10 great ascents on Canadian soil. In 1896, Ha Ling made the first ascent of the most westward peak in the Ehagay Nakoda range south of Canmore. The peak now has a number of classic route routes, read about
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Echo Canyon’s Radical Tall Storey Wall

Echo Canyon has become one of Western Canada’s premiere sport climbing destinations, from cragging to multi-pitch. Tall Storey is a 185-metre 5.11c that was established and climbed in 2009 by Chris Perry and his son, Ian. The route has become one of the most popular
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Mount Logan Success, Storms and Helicopters

In May and June, three highly experienced climbers were attempting to traverse Mount Logan. After reaching the summit they were forced to spend a week above 5,000 metres in snow caves until a helicopter picked them up. Bryce Brown and his two partners flew on May 16 from the
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Watch Climbing Mount Robson’s Kain Face

Mount Robson’s Kain Face is one of the most sought-after moderate alpine faces in Canada. In 2014, Max and Charlie Nuttelman made an ascent of the classic wall, which was first climbed in 1913 by Conrad Kain and his clients, McCarthy and Foster. It’s a 20-pitch alpine
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Check Out the Splitters at Chile’s “Indian Creek”

On an expedition to Rio Loa in 2012, Juan and Diego Señoret showed off a new area of trad climbing with perfect hand, fist and finger cracks about 30 metres tall. It is located in San Pedro de Atacama, near the town of Taira, Chile. “Rio Loa” Rock Climbing.
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