Gripped Magazine

Rockies

Two New Routes on Ha Ling Peak in Rockies

Ha Ling Peak has a number of worthwhile routes ranging from the classic Northeast Face 5.6 to the newer route, A Particular Manner of Expression 5.12. In June, 2015, Jay Mills climbed two new routes. The routes are left of the Northeast Face route and they both share around 140
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Deconstructing Jenga: Hard New Route on Baffin’s Great Cross Pillar

Americans, David Allfrey and Cheyne Lempe, have climbed a new route on Baffin Island at the start of what promises to be a busy summer on Baffin Island. Allfrey and Lempe are two of America’s strongest big wall climbers. During May, the pair climbed a new route on Great
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Evan Hau Sends Another New 5.14 in Rockies

Evan Hau is a Calgary-based climber who is among the top sport climbers in the country. He is spending his summer finding and sending some of the Bow Valley’s last hard projects.  While on his journey to find Canada’s first 5.15a, Hau’s been busy putting down
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First Ascent of an Albertan V10 by Matt Lucas

Matt Lucas is no stranger to hard bouldering problems and he recently opened a new crag in Kananaskis Country with fellow Calgary climbers. Their new crag is dubbed Crows Nest and is located across from Nakiska Ski Resort in Kananaskis Country, AB. Joined by Marc Eveleigh and
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John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
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Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
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Japanese Team Climbs Mount Temple’s Snowy North Face

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani are Japanese climbers currently based in the Canadian Rockies.  The two alpinists have been making quick work of some of the area’s most classic big alpine routes. A few weeks ago, they made a rare ascent of The Wild Thing 1,300 m M7 WI5 on
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Americans Climb Yamnuska Test-Piece: Blue Jeans 5.13

Americans Josh Wharton and Hayden Kennedy climb Yamnuska’s Blue Jeans 5.13. Wharton had visited the steep Yamnuska route twice before, but it was Kennedy’s first go. Neither climber is a stranger to the Canadian Rockies as both have ticked a number of the area’s
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The Route: Hot Fuzz and Sharknado on Kanga South

The Canadian Rockies have more stone than climbers know what to do with. You only needs to stand on a summit and look in any direction to know there’s lifetimes of new routes. Sometimes, however, you need only step out of the car to find new lines. Gripped editor Brandon
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Dan Beland Sends Skaha Test-Pieces

Dan Beland has been on a tear in Skaha over the last few weeks. Sending some of the area’s hardest routes, the Victoria, B.C. climber recently sent his last project of his trip. Skaha has been busy this spring with near-perfect weather and excellent climbing conditions.
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