Gripped Magazine

West Coast

West Coast’s new Vangaurdia

The West Coast season of new-routing has picked up again after a dry spell during the heat wave. Brette Harrington climbed a new 5.12+ just south of Squamish. The route is on the Fferys Wheel crag near Gonzales Creek. It’s a mix of bolts and thin gear
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Christy Falls: all season fun

Christy Falls in winter, spring and summer. The wall has a world-class ice climb in winter and 5.14 routes in summer. By Adam Tutte The ice climb Christy Falls was found seven years ago in Kelowna B.C. I was new to ice at that point and the rock really drew me in. I live to bolt
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Finlayson completes the Big Show

West Coast’s Jamie Finlayson has climbed every route on Chek Canyon’s the Big Show. It took Finlayson four years, “A lot of blood, sweat, and effort to tick the entire Big Show wall in the Chek Canyon,” said Finlayson. “Freewill 5.13c, Divison Bell
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A day of Squamish bouldering

Andrew Ashley spent a day bouldering in Squamish in July. He climbed some rad problems, check it out…  
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Finlayson’s New Working Man 5.14

Jamie Finlayson has climbed many of the West Coast’s hardest routes and recently added a new 5.14b. The July heatwave is providing perfect conditions for hard sends in Squamish. Read about Ben Harnden’s second ascent of The Bull 5.14R here. Finlayson bolted the route
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New Squamish Highball

I Picked a Bad Day to Stop Sniffing Glue is a new V11 highball in the North Walls of Squamish. It climbs a V5 problem before traversing onto the high and steep headwall. The crux is a crimpy bump sequence from a horizontal rail, nearly 10 metres up. The moves and height are
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New two-pitch route in Squamish

The new Sea-to-Sky gondola has opened access to some off-piste rock. New routes are being developed and one wall with potential is Wrinkle Rock. Wrinkle Rock is named for its folded granite features. It offers a range of easier routes that are a combination of crack and slab
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New V10s in Okanagan

The Okanagan has long been a destination for climbers. The warm spring brought great conditions to the area and climbers have been busy scrubbing new problems and sending old projects. Andy White, who runs the Okanagan bouldering website, sent two of his projects. White wrote on
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Squamish’s famous finger crack, Exasperator!

IFMGA mountain guide Crosby Johnston talks about one of his favourite Squamish 5.10 rock climbs, Exasperator Crack. It is one of the best single-pitch routes in Squamis, located at the Grand Wall base, it is 45 m of technical finger crack climbing. It was first climbed in 1960 by
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Finlayson Sends Superman

Squamish climber, Jamie Finlayson, who has a piece on Squamish climbing in our June issue, has sent Superman 5.14c on the Big Show at Cheakamus. Finlayson sent the route which was first climbed by Sonnie Trotter in 2002, second ascent by Sean McColl in 2004, on May 7. Finlayson
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