Gripped Magazine

West Coast

Jamie Finlayson Sends Silent Menace/Smell the Glove

Jamie Finlayson is one of Canada’s strongest climbers and he recently sent a long-time project in Squamish. By Jamie Finlayson I tried this route off and on for four years, but the nearby route, Dreamcather 5.14d, had always distracted me. This season, I decided to put some
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North America’s “Highest Unclimbed Peak” is Climbed in Yukon

Two South American climbers are the first to stand on Malaspina 3,776 metres in the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon. Their 1,900-metre climb has difficulties up to 65 degrees. Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada climbed the remote mountain as part of their Uncharted Project. The
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New Hard Route on Squamish’s Sheriff’s Badge

Tony McLane and Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent of The Daily Universe, a new 5.12b up the Sheriff’s Badge. The Daily Universe is an extension to the already classic 5.12a route on the Sheriff’s Badge called The Daily Planet. The new nine-pitch route is the first
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Climbing Mouses Tooth: Splitter West Coast Alpine Route

Nic Vissers and Ryan Larkin recently made an ascent of the Mouses Tooth up North Joffre Creek near Pemberton, B.C.  The remote 11-pitch 5.11 starts with a 5.10d that has a steep crux. The following pitches become more and more splitter until a perfect hand crack that climbs a
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New Hard Okanagan Boulder Problem is V12

Andy White continues the trend of climbing hard new problems on steep boulders in the Okanagan. Over the past few years, the Okanagan Valley has become one of Western Canada’s go-to bouldering areas and White has been at the forefront of development. “A couple nights
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Watch Canadians Climb Baffin’s Beluga Spire

Paul McSorely, Tony Richardson, Joshua Lavigne and Crosby Johnston travel to the remote Baffin Island with the goal of a first ascent of the North Face of the Beluga Spire. Prior to even leaving for the expedition their local Clyde River guide, Levi suggested they not even make
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Brette Harrington Makes Third Free Ascent of Edge of Pan!

Squamish-based crusher Brette Harrington has made the third ascent and first female ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief. The Edge of Pan was first free-climbed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. One week ago, Harrington and American climber Jesse Huey rappelled in for
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Aerial Footage of a Bugaboo Classic

Luke Humphrey’s most recent online film is a nicely produced video of the classic Bugaboo route, the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. Considered “the best 5.4 in the world,” the B.C. route gets dozens of ascents every season. The 500-metre-long ridge has sticky
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Vikki Weldon Sends Hard Squamish Crack

Vikki Weldon has climbed her hardest gear climb to date with her send of Adder Crack. On Fri. July 17, Vikki pieced together the difficult moves of one of Squamish’s 5.13a cracks called Adder Crack, and joined a small group of Canadian women who have sent a 5.13 gear climb.
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Watch a Squamish V10 Send

Tomasz Wojtkowiak has been spending the better part of the summer in Squamish sending a number of classics. Wojtkowiak recently sent No Toublems V10 in the Grand Wall Boulders. The problem is one of the most popular V10s on the West Coast and receives a number of sends every
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