Gripped Magazine

West Coast

Brette Harrington Makes Third Free Ascent of Edge of Pan!

Squamish-based crusher Brette Harrington has made the third ascent and first female ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief. The Edge of Pan was first free-climbed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. One week ago, Harrington and American climber Jesse Huey rappelled in for
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Aerial Footage of a Bugaboo Classic

Luke Humphrey’s most recent online film is a nicely produced video of the classic Bugaboo route, the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. Considered “the best 5.4 in the world,” the B.C. route gets dozens of ascents every season. The 500-metre-long ridge has sticky
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Vikki Weldon Sends Hard Squamish Crack

Vikki Weldon has climbed her hardest gear climb to date with her send of Adder Crack. On Fri. July 17, Vikki pieced together the difficult moves of one of Squamish’s 5.13a cracks called Adder Crack, and joined a small group of Canadian women who have sent a 5.13 gear climb.
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Watch a Squamish V10 Send

Tomasz Wojtkowiak has been spending the better part of the summer in Squamish sending a number of classics. Wojtkowiak recently sent No Toublems V10 in the Grand Wall Boulders. The problem is one of the most popular V10s on the West Coast and receives a number of sends every
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Jamie Finlayson Sends His Hardest Problem To Date!

Squamish-based climber Jamie Finlayson has sent his first V13 and it was in challenging weather conditions. Finlayson sent Terminator V13 on July 9, despite less-than-perfect atmospheric conditions due to forest fires. After the send, Finlayson wrote, “There are very few
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10 Great Ascents in Canada From the Past Century

No better way to celebrate Canada Day than to look back at 100 years and 10 great ascents on Canadian soil. In 1896, Ha Ling made the first ascent of the most westward peak in the Ehagay Nakoda range south of Canmore. The peak now has a number of classic route routes, read about
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Adventure on Mount Bute to Free 50-Pitch School of Rock

Jason Ammerlaan, Nathan MacDonald and Luke Neufeld have returned from B.C.’s remote Mount Bute after having freed the School of Rock. Ammerlaan, MacDonald and Neufeld spent two days on the 1,900-metre route climbing and a third day descending. “We were feeling lucky
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New Squamish Crag is Family Friendly

Tess Egan and her husband, Jason Robinson, have developed a new crag in Squamish called the Playground. Along the way, Kye Egan-Robinson, made one of the youngest first ascents ever. After discovering the potential crag, Tess had to convince her husband that it was worth the
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Mount Logan Success, Storms and Helicopters

In May and June, three highly experienced climbers were attempting to traverse Mount Logan. After reaching the summit they were forced to spend a week above 5,000 metres in snow caves until a helicopter picked them up. Bryce Brown and his two partners flew on May 16 from the
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New Alpine Rock Route on Vancouver Island

At the beginning of June 2015, Ryan Van Horne and Mike Morris climbed a new route on the east face of Vancouver Island’s Sutton Peak. It is the fourth route Van Horne has added to the over-looked, but long-coveted face. His earlier moderate routes were Holy Horseshoes with
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