Gripped Magazine

West Coast

Freeze/Thaw and Loose Rocks

This is a friendly reminder and heads up to keep an eye out for loose rock this spring and wear a helmet. In Canada, we are lucky because we still get four amazing seasons, each filled with distinctive weather patterns. In winter, everything freezes, even the water within the
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Squamish’s Angry Beaver

The Squamish classic Split Beaver, 5.10b, has humbled many wanna-be off-width climbers. Mike Hengeveled summed it up, “My off-widthing started with a climb called Split Beaver. In the local climbing circle, it had a reputation as a hard climb, it is steep, sustained,
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Squamish Tree Thinning

Are you wondering why trees are missing around some of your favourite Smoke Bluff climbs? Don’t worry, it is not aggressive route cleaning. B.C. Hydro went to work on hydro poles in and around the Smoke Bluffs and the Apron, clearing trees and bush to access work sites. The
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Zombie Roof

Squamish’s classic roof-crack at the Smoke Bluffs. Perry Beckham and Will Stanhope explain the history behind Peter Croft’s first ascent of the Zombie Roof, 5.12d, in Squamish, B.C. and the process behind Stanhope completing the first free-solo of the route.  
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Perfect Conditions on Foster’s Direttissima

Mount Colonel Foster is on Vancouver Island, B.C., At 2,135 metres it is the fourth highest peak on the island.  In Jan. 1978, Joe Bajan and Ross Nichol made the first winter ascent of Foster’s 1,000-metre east face while making the first ascent of Direttissima, V, AI5.
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Shannon Falls

Shannon Falls, WI2+, 400 m, is the Cascade Falls of the West Coast. The popular tourist stop, Shannon Falls, can sporadically freeze during coastal cold snaps and when it does, ice climbers are poised to ascent it. It is a long, prominent, easier-than-it-looks ice climb. Less
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June-uary on Squamish’s Angels Crest

Ross Berg, owner of Altus Mountain Guides, climbed a bone-dry Angels Crest in January 2014.    
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The Shadow

Peter Croft did the first free ascent of the Shadow, 5.13, onsight in 1988. It is an eye-catching dihedral, a steep 50-metre pitch of hand to finger crack climbing. Watch Jesse Huey as he does a rare free-ascent of the legendary line. THE SHADOW from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.
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Battle of Evermore

Sonnie Trotter takes us to a secluded crag in Squamish for a look at his route The Battle of Evermore, 5.14, and its unique overhanging prow.
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