Gripped Magazine

West Coast

Jamie Finlayson Sends His Hardest Problem To Date!

Squamish-based climber Jamie Finlayson has sent his first V13 and it was in challenging weather conditions. Finlayson sent Terminator V13 on July 9, despite less-than-perfect atmospheric conditions due to forest fires. After the send, Finlayson wrote, “There are very few
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10 Great Ascents in Canada From the Past Century

No better way to celebrate Canada Day than to look back at 100 years and 10 great ascents on Canadian soil. In 1896, Ha Ling made the first ascent of the most westward peak in the Ehagay Nakoda range south of Canmore. The peak now has a number of classic route routes, read about
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Adventure on Mount Bute to Free 50-Pitch School of Rock

Jason Ammerlaan, Nathan MacDonald and Luke Neufeld have returned from B.C.’s remote Mount Bute after having freed the School of Rock. Ammerlaan, MacDonald and Neufeld spent two days on the 1,900-metre route climbing and a third day descending. “We were feeling lucky
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New Squamish Crag is Family Friendly

Tess Egan and her husband, Jason Robinson, have developed a new crag in Squamish called the Playground. Along the way, Kye Egan-Robinson, made one of the youngest first ascents ever. After discovering the potential crag, Tess had to convince her husband that it was worth the
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Mount Logan Success, Storms and Helicopters

In May and June, three highly experienced climbers were attempting to traverse Mount Logan. After reaching the summit they were forced to spend a week above 5,000 metres in snow caves until a helicopter picked them up. Bryce Brown and his two partners flew on May 16 from the
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New Alpine Rock Route on Vancouver Island

At the beginning of June 2015, Ryan Van Horne and Mike Morris climbed a new route on the east face of Vancouver Island’s Sutton Peak. It is the fourth route Van Horne has added to the over-looked, but long-coveted face. His earlier moderate routes were Holy Horseshoes with
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Squamish’s La Coalition 5.11 is Good to Go

Squamish’s Adam Hart established La Coalition a number of years ago and wants people to go climb it. “I established a new six pitch 5.11+ in the South Gully on The Cheif just up from the Opal Wall called La Coalition with Damien Cote in 2008,” said Hart.
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Remote Northwest Adventure Yields New Long Routes

Canadian Max Fisher and American Eric Bonnett have returned from another successful trip to Alaska and Northwestern B.C., where they’ve climbed two new long alpine granite routes. By Max Fisher During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Erik Bonnett and I
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Jamie Finlayson Sends Squaminator V12, Watch Here!

Squaminator V12 is part of the North Wall Boulders in Squamish and it’s one of the more popular problems at the grade in the area. Earlier this year, Luke Zimmerman made an ascent and his beta played a role in Jamie Finlayson’s ascent. “Steep and powerful with
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Gord McArthur Sends Difficult Project At Lakit Lake

Gord McArthur is best known for being a top international competitive mixed climber, but during the summer “off season,” he spends his time sans-tools at his local crag: Lakit Lake. Lakit Lake is one of the many crags around Cranbrook, B.C. where McArthur is based. As
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