Gripped Magazine

West Coast

John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
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New Delhi Cliff: Two New Squamish Multi-Pitch Routes

Squamish locals have been busy this spring developing some great looking new climbs. The New Delhi Cliff is right of the Top Shelf and left of the Barbarian Wall and has two new multi-pitch 5.11s that were climbed this spring. Approach as Top Shelf for 15 minuntes and then head
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New 5.12 Roof on Squamish’s Fjord Wall

Every year, Squamish gets a handful of quality difficult, steep new routes and Taran Ortlieb has The White Raven 5.12b to this year’s list. Paul McSorley and Ortlieb developed a new crag across the highway and 100 metres north of Murrin Park called the Fjord Guard. Follow
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British Columbia’s Roche Lake Gets Hard New Route

The Roche Lake wall is a great crag near Roche Lake in the Kamloops area and it features the hardest climbs around Kamloops. Roche Lake has dozens of high-quality routes on steep rock. Local Pat Campbell, who spends most of his time bouldering, recently sent one of his roped
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Nathan Hall Climbs His First Squamish V11

Nathan Hall is a Squamish-based climber who recently sent one of the area’s classic hard boulder problems. Originally from Saskatchewan, 29-year-old Hall is an all-round climber with a number of hard boulders and routes under his belt. In 2013, Hall sent Ghost King V11 in
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The Route: Squamish’s Hanging Garden 5.10c

In 2012, this old 1960’s three-pitch route was scrubbed clean by Kris Wild and has since become somewhat of a Squamish must-climb. On the Squamish climbing forum in 2012, Wild wrote, “On Sunday March 25, I completed the unearthing of Hanging Gardens. It’s
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Squamish’s famous finger crack: Exasperator

IFMGA mountain guide Crosby Johnston talks about one of his favourite Squamish 5.10 rock climbs, Exasperator Crack. It is one of the best single-pitch routes in Squamis, located at the Grand Wall base, it is 45 m of technical finger crack climbing. It was first climbed in 1960 by
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Dan Beland Sends Skaha Test-Pieces

Dan Beland has been on a tear in Skaha over the last few weeks. Sending some of the area’s hardest routes, the Victoria, B.C. climber recently sent his last project of his trip. Skaha has been busy this spring with near-perfect weather and excellent climbing conditions.
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Watch Two Strong Sends at Murrin Park: MIA and Summoning

Missing in Action V8 and Summoning V12 are two of Murrin Park’s classic problems.  Jamie Finlayson of Squamish recently sent Summoning and said, “Great problem, so physical. Slap and squeeze. Definitely went to battle with this one. Actually slipped off the top when I
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Watch Canadians Climb Baffin’s Beluga Spire

Paul McSorely, Tony Richardson, Joshua Lavigne and Crosby Johnston travel to the remote Baffin Island with the goal of a first ascent of the North Face of the Beluga Spire. Prior to even leaving for the expedition their local Clyde River guide, Levi suggested they not even make
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