Gripped Magazine

West Coast

Finlayson Sends Superman

Squamish climber, Jamie Finlayson, who has a piece on Squamish climbing in our June issue, has sent Superman 5.14c on the Big Show at Cheakamus. Finlayson sent the route which was first climbed by Sonnie Trotter in 2002, second ascent by Sean McColl in 2004, on May 7. Finlayson
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North of Squamish – Lillooet Edge

Many people have seen the cliffs near Lillooet, a recent retro-fitting has re-opened the area for sport climbing. How to get there: Go 51 km north of Whistler. Take highway 99 past Pemberton to Mount Currie and turn onto the Duffy Lake Road. Another 12 km later, the cliff is
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Freeze/Thaw and Loose Rocks

This is a friendly reminder and heads up to keep an eye out for loose rock this spring and wear a helmet. In Canada, we are lucky because we still get four amazing seasons, each filled with distinctive weather patterns. In winter, everything freezes, even the water within the
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Squamish’s Angry Beaver

The Squamish classic Split Beaver, 5.10b, has humbled many wanna-be off-width climbers. Mike Hengeveled summed it up, “My off-widthing started with a climb called Split Beaver. In the local climbing circle, it had a reputation as a hard climb, it is steep, sustained,
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Squamish Tree Thinning

Are you wondering why trees are missing around some of your favourite Smoke Bluff climbs? Don’t worry, it is not aggressive route cleaning. B.C. Hydro went to work on hydro poles in and around the Smoke Bluffs and the Apron, clearing trees and bush to access work sites. The
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Zombie Roof

Squamish’s classic roof-crack at the Smoke Bluffs. Perry Beckham and Will Stanhope explain the history behind Peter Croft’s first ascent of the Zombie Roof, 5.12d, in Squamish, B.C. and the process behind Stanhope completing the first free-solo of the route.  
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Perfect Conditions on Foster’s Direttissima

Mount Colonel Foster is on Vancouver Island, B.C., At 2,135 metres it is the fourth highest peak on the island.  In Jan. 1978, Joe Bajan and Ross Nichol made the first winter ascent of Foster’s 1,000-metre east face while making the first ascent of Direttissima, V, AI5.
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Shannon Falls

Shannon Falls, WI2+, 400 m, is the Cascade Falls of the West Coast. The popular tourist stop, Shannon Falls, can sporadically freeze during coastal cold snaps and when it does, ice climbers are poised to ascent it. It is a long, prominent, easier-than-it-looks ice climb. Less
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June-uary on Squamish’s Angels Crest

Ross Berg, owner of Altus Mountain Guides, climbed a bone-dry Angels Crest in January 2014.    
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