Forum

Gripped » Gripped Forums » Rock » Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9 10
Presentational Image Author Topic: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
flashman
Member
Posts: 123
flashman
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 05:00

It was a waste of my time to have to re-lead it (and a little dangerous because I was pissed off)

This is the essence of your problem, which as it turns out goes well beyond a couple of missing belay bolts. Why get pissed off? Shit happens, and you make it right - this goes to the core of the climbing experience. If you can’t deal with stuff like this, at worst you’re going to get somebody else killed, at best nobody is going to enjoy climbing with you.

jordanp
Member
Posts: 7
jordanp
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 07:37

Hissy fits RULE!! Thanks dude!

dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 07:39

God forbid that anyone have to climb Penny Lane twice, right.

vram1974
Member
Posts: 189
vram1974
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 09:40

Dru your pop culture references are as incoherent as most of what you write on here. But then, what, if any, importance would I expect you to provide than your obvious sarcasm and requisite criticisms? Guess what, Sarq Astiq already has your job. You need to find a new niche. If you think that niche is hardman, I suggest not finding it on the internet where you seek favour from like-minded climbers who think that traditional climbing involves spring loaded camming devices and the SUV they drove to the crag. Well guess what, chappy? My grandpappy climbed on hemp and soft irons pitons long before you were a congealed conception of cognitive incoherence. And what did you go and do? You changed the rules on him. Wore sticky rubber, fancy nylon ropes, SLCD’s that are so easy to place that you can turn Apron Strings into a six inch per pro sport climb, and lots and lots and lots of metolius superchalk. Well guess what again Dru old boy, you aint representin nothing trad except the notion that you are preserving some kind of ethic invented slightly after Ray Jarine made the first Forged Friend, and that ethic went out with the chipped Nose. So take your elitist, sarcastic, nonsensical, subliterate, substandard ramblings, and tell it to the East Germans, who still climb with no chalk and no pro.

Now that THAT’s taken care of, let’s get a grip of our 5.9 discussing heads here and chill. 5.9 was cutting edge back when Fritz Weissner was cutting his teeth, and some say there’s a bolted face somewhere up Cerro Torre’s Compressor Route. DOES IT REALLY MATTER FOLKS? Is it worth the bickering about ethics? You think a guy like Warren Harding would give a damn about whether or not it was ethical to place bolts on the top of a 20 metre route beside a subdivision?

You know what? Fine. I lose. Because if there’s never been anchors at the top of Penny Lane, who am I to say there should be? If that’s what it takes to end this debate, I officially resign. Queen to rook 4, check, black resigns. You guys win. Bolts suck. Anchors are for pussies. We should all toss in our ropes in and take up soloing Astroman like Peter. Careful what you solo though… or the mob will crucify your Dean Potter ass faster than you can say Fuel Chugging Hummvee. I’m sorry I interrupted your frappacino tea party at the Starbucks below Burger and Fries, while you brush lint from your Underarmour and wax poetic on how hard you are.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 11:04

ah, yes.  Modernisation is good.  That’s a superb argument for things like car safety features and half-baked democracies.  Not so sure if it works for trad climbs.  The emphasis there is on the trad. 

There’s an awful lot of ueber-polished rock in Ontario, from what I hear.  Maybe we could prevent B.C.’s classics from getting the same treatment.

vram1974 wrote:I’d like to add one more thing. In Ontario there were/are dozens and dozens of ultra classics that did not recieve top bolt anchors decades after they were put up. And then one day they starting appearing. And nobody chopped em. Pretty nice. High Society received some. Cat’s Tail received some. Sport and trad routes alike, and some had nothing to do with preserving trees.

You know, it’s kind of sad when Ontario is modernizing faster than B.C., especially when Ontario all but has a moratorium on new routes. Hence another good reason to come here.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

tenn
Member
Posts: 29
tenn
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 14:54

Dude,

The facts that you’ve climbed 11d in new hampshire, that you feel climbing a few slab moves above crime of the century is a waste of your time, that the ontario climbing community is ahead of its BC counterpart, that you don’t care, that you think gear anchors are inconvenient and that you have something personal against the online personality that is Dru are all irrelevant in the discussion about the necessity of fixed anchors at the top of penny lane. They do however reflect an attitude that I would describe as arrogant.

Most climbers (including 1 of 2 first ascencionists) are perfectly happy to  build a belay, bring up their second and rappel off. The fact that your partner found no fixed belay at the top would certainly have posed a problem - but nothing you couldn’t deal with right?

 

t-bone
Member
Posts: 18
t-bone
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 16:56

well said gentlemen.

vram takes a flurry to the solar plexis

bumpkin
Member
Posts: 30
bumpkin
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 16, 2006, 18:18

vram1974 writes
-You know what? Fine. I lose

You do … but not for the reasons you mention. You lose because whether climbs get retrofitted or not is, ideally, a decision that should be in line with the wishes and culture of the community and although the gripped b.b. is not a perfect reflection of the Squamish community, your tone and beligerence has done nothing at all except to piss off and alienate the folks you should be trying to persuade. How are you going to convince anyone to see your side of something when your arguments consist of dissing and trash-talking them ? Or when you show no willingness or capacity to try and see things from their perspectives (that is, re-phrasing the opposing argument to create a straw man — a very lame rhetorical strategy)?

Unless, of course, you’re not that much of a belligerent prick in real life, and you’re just trolling. In which case, carry on old chap.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 17, 2006, 02:00

Vram–

OK, now that the ad hominem mudslinging is over, would you mind commenting on the actual issue at hand? 

Since top-ropeable climbs, and especially top-ropeable-on-fixed-anchors climbs will get massive traffic and eventually thereby become polished, how should these resources be managed?

Do we treat climbs the way we do, say, oil and natural gas– burn ‘em up as quickly as we can by getting as many peopel as possible on them– or do we imagine that people in 100 years will want to climb them, and conserve?  And if it’s the second, how?

chris

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

vram1974
Member
Posts: 189
vram1974
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 17, 2006, 14:06

Yeah, that was a real, uh, verbal dressing down. How ever shall I recover from said allegations and insinuations? Truly I can never show my digital fingerprint upon this prestigious medium ever again…

solar plexus

A dense cluster of nerve cells and supporting tissue, located behind the stomach in the region of the celiac artery just below the diaphragm. A blow to that area, if it penetrates to the true solar plexus, not only causes great pain but may also temporarily halt visceral functioning.

Thankfully I need only worry about cognitive functioning, and not visceral. Dru is a testament to the greater danger of the former, likely resulting from prolonged periods of altitude sickness sitting up so high on his horse. Frequent side effects of cognitive dysfunction are anonymous internet postings about ethical questions pertaining to a community that cannot agree on what colour the sky is, let alone whether bolts are good, bad, or a figment of the imagation of British Headpointers.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have one other dysfunction to test out…

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9 10

Guest  

Show or hide header

Welcome Guest, posting in this forum requires an account.

If you already have one you can login below. Otherwise, you can register for free.





Please leave these two fields as-is: