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Author	Topic: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs

red dawn

Member
Posts: 21

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 22, 2006, 18:37

Vram, when did I say anything about chipping or retro-bolting? I was talking about one thing and one thing only, how lame it would be to put anchors on top of a route that has been climbed without anchors for decades. If you do not like how the route is set up the solution is simple, don’t climb it. You have stated there are many routes in the Smoke Bluffs that have bolted anchors, stick to them instead of trying to change a long standing naturally protected route with Oh my god! natural anchors!

As for your 1994 comments? I have been climbing long before 1994,just not on the coast, if that is what you are getting at? Your sheep mentality comment is particularily humorous comming from a guy who is upset that the Smoke Bluffs are not uniform enough.

I would never refer to myself as a real climber,or say I had a real climber attitude like you have implied, but I would refer to somebody who whines about natural anchors on a naturally protected route as a………..

red dawn

Member
Posts: 21

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 22, 2006, 19:09

Vram, sure I will concede that the Bluffs are not the primo spot for adventure, so what? Do we just keep running them into the ground or do we put a stop to it now? As a local of the west coast you would know that the Bluffs only a few years ago looked much better (more veg. trees etc.), development and heavy use have taken their toll and that sucks. If you read some of the other posts you will see that many people appreciate the opportunity to build their anchors atop of Penny Lane, there are not many routes that you can do this in the Bluffs why spoil this for them?

You and your inexperienced friend should learn to read a guide book or simply learn to look up to the obvious top of the route. The route it seemed just required too much commitment and adventure for your buddy.

You are responding to quite a few people who do not agree with you, mainly other locals such as yourself, does this not make you question why you are so out of tune with the local standard and area history?

Your brilliant assesment of my character was spot on, really man it is like you are reading my autobiography. Not only was it perfect but by describing it so acurately you solidified your argument for top-rope anchors on Penny Lane.

enoughalready

Member
Posts: 7

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 22, 2006, 19:32

RedDawn:
sorry I wasn’t clear.
YOU, who started the new Pennylane trail, but never finished it, and left junk lumber at the side of trail.

dru

Member
Posts: 131

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 22, 2006, 21:13

…fluffy ptarmigan?

raingod

Member
Posts: 11

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 22, 2006, 23:43

Personally I am against the idea of consistency. While there are many bolted anchors in the Bluffs there are still many anchors without, and I like that variety. If you get on a route and you are not positive of the anchors bring up some extra stuff just in case.

josh phelps

Member
Posts: 33

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 01:41

your right vram about one thing. bottom line…this ain’t about bolts or urban climbing or adventure.
but…this is about respecting those who have spent the money and made the efforts to provide us *free of charge*, with new routes for us to enjoy. for me, this totally includes repecting how the first ascentionists envisioned and created the route and not getting all bent outta shape because my vision is different from theirs. suck it up…make your own route.

My e-mail address is invalid and if I don’t change it to a valid address soon my username will be deleted again. -Gripped

kurt

Member
Posts: 101

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 03:11

Tenn,

The routes you mentioned, Split Beaver, Crime, Partners with the exception of Penny Lane all have bolted anchors(according to the guidebook). So you can still have your little adventure regardless of the hardware at the summit.

vram1974

Member
Posts: 189

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 08:48

Presentational Image

V0+ strong baybee

vram1974

Member
Posts: 189

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 09:45

I’ll be bouldering in Squamish this weekend. You can recognize me from my previous pic or from the topitout.com web site. Hope to see some of you sh*t disturbers there.

Peace.

anders i. ourom

Member
Posts: 58

Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 10:19

Addendum: The new trail to the base of Penny Lane was completed in spring 2006, by John Harvey and the Squamish Trails Society. The work was supported by the Smoke Bluffs Planning Team. The trail, and new stabilized landing at the cliff base, are a welcome improvement.

The new trail was begun in September 2002, at an Access Society Adopt-a-Crag. A great deal of work was done, initiated by local volunteers, but a short section was left incomplete. The volunteers intended to return and complete the trail, but were unable to do so due to other commitments. It is nice that it is now completed, not to mention the other trail work and signage that have been done in the last few years in the Bluffs, and the planning for the future.

Anders

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