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Presentational Image Author Topic: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 12:30

I onsight 5.4 Presentational Image

tenn
Member
Posts: 29
tenn
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 13:14

Vram,

Ok, another reason not to bolt the top of penny lane. What about safety? The number one biggest danger in crag climbing is belayer error. What if someone gets dropped from the top rope anchor at the top of penny lane because they didn’t realize their rope was too short? It happens all the time. Preventable? Yes. By forcing a competent leader to bring their second up and then rappel off the established anchor.

Your continual blathering about what you’ve done is lame, infantile and likely suggests some inferiority complex on your part (ever hear of small man syndrome?)Routes you climbed will make haris balls creep into his lower intestine?! Lose the friggin arrogance for just a second and listen to yourself man. It seems to me you are assuming you are the only hard climber on this bulletin board and you keep trying to prove it. Go read the art of war and humble yourself.

I would also like to second hari’s assertion that the bluffs can be adventurous. My first go’s on routes like penny lane, crime, partners in crime and split beaver were exciting and rewarding and are great memories.

Murray, Anders and the other trail builders, thanks for all your work on the penny lane trail - much improved. It seems climbers can be good stewards of our finite resource. I especially like the vegetation rehab just left of the start of crime.

 

 

vram1974
Member
Posts: 189
vram1974
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 15:58

Tenn,

I’m done talking about the anchors.

As for Art of War, you should know by my writing that I’m well read. Of course I’ve read Sun Tzu, and actually I’ve quoted it on my blog quite recently:

http://www.adrian.josephlavoie.com/2006/03/21/fighting-dirty-aka-the-cowards-way/

As for arrogance, sure I am. Why not? Why does every climber have to be shy and quiet? We’re not all reserved individuals. I stick up for what I believe in, and I say what I feel. If you don’t like it, I’m afraid I’m not going to cry a river for you. I’ll just have to deal with the climbing community shunning me… boo-hoo…

As for adventure, hey… people can find adventure in a box of cracker jacks too…

enoughalready
Member
Posts: 7
enoughalready
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 18:19

Yep, I’ll be up there.  You’ll find me hanging around on the grand wall drilling away.  I’ll be re-bolting the baldwin-cooper bolt ladder from top to bottom, because after all, that is the way it was done on FA.  Anyone using the new star fangled SLCDs on the pillar will have them ripped out and tossed to the ground, to be replaced by block of wood, because that is the way the FA’s did it, or so the legend goes!  Don’t worry about the cams raining down to the base, that is the way they did it back in the day, and hey, it’ll add to that sense of adventure you all crave so much!

murray sovereign
Member
Posts: 21
murray
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 18:22

That’s easy to reconcile: no anchors at the top of Penny Lane for a variety of reasons having to do with not diminishing the climbing experience, and minimizing polishing; new trail to the base of Penny Lane because, well, did you see what was happening to the old trail, and how quickly it was happening? That trail had gone from being a narrow footpath to being a 3 foot deep trench in just a few years, and with every rainfall the ground at the base of Penny Lane and Crime of the Century was washing away down the trench.

So the new trail was necessary to prevent further erosion and preserve the climbing experience (and many thanks to all the volunteers who built it), and the bolt anchor at the top of Penny Lane is not necessary for exactly the same reason.


 

dr. send
Member
Posts: 185
willko
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 20:46

I’d just like to point out that I’m the only hard climber on this bulletin board. So leave Vram alone.

vram1974
Member
Posts: 189
vram1974
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 23, 2006, 23:33

I’ll agree to disagree.

Anders, I find it interesting that a preened and manicured climbing area pleases you, but mere bolts at the top of a pure trad climb won’t. How do you reconcile this this seeming contradiction of ethics?

(Modified for spelling error)

red dawn
Member
Posts: 21
jesse
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: June 25, 2006, 13:23

 

Ander’s, I noticed that there has been some fairly major trail development in the area of Spiderfly, what is the plan?

anders i. ourom
Member
Posts: 58
anders i. ourom
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: September 1, 2009, 17:50

I’m just inserting this post to bump the thread, so it can be referenced in another discussion. The URL doesn’t otherwise work.

sigo
Member
Posts: 1
sigo
Post Re: Penny Lane Smoke Bluffs
on: September 13, 2009, 21:15

The first time I did this route I remember looking for some anchors and being pleasantly surprised to find no bolts.  It seemed to fit much better with the route’s character.  I distinctly remember saying “nice” out loud. 

So some people probably like it, some probably don’t.  Nice to have a variety of options, especially if they generally fit with tradition.

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