Forum

Gripped » Gripped Forums » Rock » Right Wing Blog

Pages: [1]
Presentational Image Author Topic: Right Wing Blog
frimer
Member
Posts: 17
frimer
Post Right Wing Blog
on: March 27, 2007, 15:51

I’ve been doing a major retro make-over on Right Wing, The Squaw, Squamish this winter. It’s a 4-pitch, 10c crack route with some terrific exposure, and a 60m 5.10 corner pitch that is sure to become legendary. I’ve started a blog to document the cleaning process, and to post info (topo, rack recommendations, how to know if the slow-drying corner is dry without going all the way up there to find out). Check it out:

http://squamish-rightwing.blogspot.com/

frimer
Member
Posts: 17
frimer
Post Re: Right Wing Blog
on: March 30, 2007, 19:00

The Pilot asked about:

Gear: Bring lots. The 10b corner (I gave it the name The Filibuster) is long and sustained. It might be one of the 10bs that feels like an 11-. I wonder if it might gain a reputation similar to that of Milk Run, The Split Pillar, and Mercy Street. There’s plenty of chimneying on the first half of it (with mostly regular sized gear) but one or two big pieces will be essential for anyone not super solid at the grade. The second half has some steep laybacking (hands to fingers) with little or no feet for a long way. So I’m suggesting atleast a double set from fingers to #3 Camalot with perhaps 2 bigger pieces. The final pitch (has been called Beak Flake… I’m toying with the name What’s Left to keep on the political theme) requires two big pieces as well. Overhanging jamming, laybacking, jug-pulling, and heel hooking.

When Did I clean amidst all the rain?
A little in November… then took the ropes down till March and have gotten a fair bit in recently. It should be done within a month.

Belays:
After much deliberation, I decided to put all bolted/rap anchors in. That said, some may want to break up the Filibuster with a hanging belay on gear.

Keep eyes on the blog for updates and a printable topo/route description once it’s all ready to go (mid-April).

Jeremy

Pages: [1]

Guest  

Show or hide header

Welcome Guest, posting in this forum requires an account.

If you already have one you can login below. Otherwise, you can register for free.





Please leave these two fields as-is: