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tina s.
Member
Posts: 9
tina s.
Post PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 18, 2007, 14:54

I am looking for any tips, tricks or tidbitts on ways to improve the blood circulation in my arms, (forearms).  I pump out so quickly and I am in very good cardiovascular shape.  I have to shake out on every hold, and this is something that has just started to happen after years of climbing.  Diet Suggestions?  Training Suggestions?  Kleenex?

chris neve
Member
Posts: 79
Chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 18, 2007, 18:26

Hey, Tina… how is your warm-up? I think a lot of people get a quick flash pump on their first climb because they don’t get the circulation flowing to the forearms and fingers well enough to begin with. If the warm-up is not effective, when you start climbing the blood will rush to the area because it is suddenly required there right away. Mike Doyle details this in his training manual as the fight-or-flight reaction. This creates a big pump quickly.

Having a flash pump is not really a bad thing as it does get the blood to where it should be - it’s just not good on the climb. Try to get it before you are climbing the route you really want to send (ie. in the warm-up) and see if this makes a difference. Then your good cardio will help you out more.

Also, make sure you de-pump after a climb so that you are not still pumped for the next climb - if you don’t, then you are already starting at a deficit for every climb afterwards.

My thoughts…

Chris

Chris

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 18, 2007, 23:25

Yea, Chris has good suggestions– warm uip is crucial.

But the real way to avoid pump is to train for it.  In a proper training cycle, the beginning phase is endurance.  You do loads of climbing at a level that does not produce pump, then you mix in bouldering (power) and later hard projects (power endurance).  At the end of a cycle you shoudl have pretty good endurance and strength.  Read Performance Rock CLimbing by Neuman and Godard for how to do this (Read ch15 and 16 first). 

If you lived in Squamish and coudl get outdoors for training, your routine would be something liek this:  in April, you do loads of long easy routes (e.g. you do 3 Apron routes in one day twice or 3x/week; and when doing them, you practice moving smooth, perfect footwork etc).  After a few weeks of this, keep doing the same, but add a short bouldering circuit twice a week after your long mellow training.  Later, get on some projects that are 4 grades above your onsight level.  Take 2 weeks off in July, and repeat.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 20, 2007, 05:56

When I spoke to Peter Croft, he said they use to jump on the hardest climb first thing - and on occasion I’ve done that myself (and no I suck unlike croft) - thinking I’d have more energy. In reality I climb better after a good 1/2 hour of easy warm up.

Utilize any and all rests.

Blast through the crux with decisive actions, and look for future moves and the next shake out.

Get a friend to give a forearm rope burn or massage your aching muscles.

Surely there is some sort of diet that may help but I wouldn’t know because Salmon doesn’t seem to do much for me…. Stay hydrated that’s for sure and eat calcium supplements along with proper energy foods.

 

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

noahz
Member
Posts: 106
noahz
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 21, 2007, 05:11

On 8a.nu on the Canadian articals (worlds too) there was a artical about getting pumped and how to avoide it (if i do recall), it is under ‘training’.

http://www.8a.nu

 

_____________________________________________________________________

http://www.batcaveclimbing.com/

trad man
Member
Posts: 155
trad man
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 02:48

 Suzy Q Wrote

vitamin A and D for example How is vitamin D bad for you and how much of a dose is to much? And where are you getting your info?

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 06:49

Suz–

Actually, most athletes (i mean, fit people) *are* chronically undernourished.  You could read Neil Colgan’s Optimum SPorts Nutrition (2nd ed.) for the scoop.  This is a very complex topic.  Basically, when you overlaod any part of the body (muscle, or cardio) you break bits of it and rebuild them (if you are recovering properly).  The problem is that…each person’s biochemical makeup is different and so is their diet. 

Also, vast amounts of things that used to be part of a healthy balanced diet sinply canot be obtained form our diet, and you have a recipe for depletion.  Colgan for example talks about trace elements like zinc (I believe– I don’t have the book in front of me) which you cannot replace from soil once extracted via nitrogen-overload factory farming and which is no longer naturally present in north american food. 

Most pro athletes are regularly blood tested for nutritional purposes; the top end guys like lance armstrong etc get customised vitamin and element boosters tailroed for them personally.

You are however right on one point: it is almost impossible to accurately self-diagnose any kind of deficiency or other.  For thsi you need blood testing etc.

The person who wanted info on avoiding the pump can consult the many boosk on the topic.  It has 95% to do with training; the rest is rest and hydration and loads of warm-ups.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 07:30

Zinc depleted from soil is easily replaced by normal weathering, nitrogen fertilizer or no. Also, sea salt, seafood and meat are good zinc sources. The statement about zinc being absent from the North American diet sounds like pseudoscience to me.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 07:48

Yea, supplements are mostly BS…like I said, the people who really use them well are those who are tested and whe get specific ones built for them.  But Colgan is very very clear– a well rounded diet is simply insufficient in micronutrients for most athletes.  E.g., the RDAs for most vitamins and minerals were basically guessed at by the FDA (based on vastly different lifestyles etc) in the early ’50s and havn’t changed since.  Read his book– fascinating.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

handy
Member
Posts: 41
handy
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 15:13

Suz - Lactic Acid, contrary to popular myth, has nothing to do with being pumped.

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