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dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 15:39

Supplements are bunk. The supplement industry is 99.999% snake oil. Let’s take Vitamin E as an example. There are something like 8 different forms (isomers) of Vitamin E but most supplements only contain one of the 8. Taking these supplements actually decreases the concentrations of the other 7 forms of the vitamin in the body and can lead to imbalance and deficiency. It is possible to buy expensive supplements that contain all 8 forms of the vitamin, but it is much simpler and more effective to simply eat a balanced diet that supplies all necessary forms of the vitamin and to avoid the supplements entirely.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 22, 2007, 22:01

Dru– it wasn’t zinc.  I have to get the book and look it up, but his point was, there are loads of micro-nutirents (and bacteria) which are basically absent from modern diets.  Many of these add up to make deficiencies which have to be remedied by taking specific supplelments.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 23, 2007, 04:40

Tina– from the info you provide, it sounds like (a) you aren’t doing proper endurance training and (b) you need to work your crimper strength.  You could read Heather Reynolds-Sagar’s book which has a set of tests you can do which will show you your specific strengths and weaknesses and it gives you specific exercises to remedy these.

You need to train endurance by massive amounts of low mileage (ie going to the gym 2x/week and climbing 40 routes per session, at a grade that does not produce any pump) before you get into projects and harder stuff.  It sounds counterintuitive but you have to get weaker before you can get stronger.  You can do a variety of things for crimper strength (fingerboard work, specific types of boulder problems, traversing on small holds, etc).

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 23, 2007, 10:06

The RDA (both minimum and maximum) for different vitamins and minerals has been revised several times, (the Canadian one has been updated since 2000) and is scientifically based.

Most athletes take minerals and supplements because of the arms race factor.. the competition is doing it and we should too, in case it helps. But there’s no evidence that it actually does help. Anmd there’s no standardization of supplementation in top athletes - it’s almost random. Put another way, Sharma takes bee pollen and eats raw eggs… Nicole eats cheeseburgers… they both send V15.

tina s.
Member
Posts: 9
tina s.
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 23, 2007, 10:39

Thats exactly what is going on Mr. Harihari.  Holly shit.  I have become a complete slacker.  I used to crank out at least twice as many routes a few years back.  Although my grade strength has not declined, my endurance has and that is exactly why, I have gotten lazy.  Trying to climb hard, not off the couch, but off the high chair.  Great feedback, that is exactly what I needed to hear.  Just in time to get geared up for Kentucky in the Fall. 

Thank you my friend. I have turned into a slacker. 

limestone_cowboy
Member
Posts: 12
limestone_cowboy
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 23, 2007, 11:59

Tina…….

Most of the suggestions being made here are reasonable - you could change your training routine (or start training? - not clear from your post), you could regulate/modify your diet and add supplements - the problem being, it’s difficult to provide truley constructive information/ideas without a little more information……….

What grade of climb are you pumping out on?

Is there a specific type of hold/grip that pumps you out quickly?

Are you currently doing any sort of formalised training?

What type of climbing are we talking about and what are your objectives (trad, sport, TR, (onsight, red point))?

Based on the information you did provide in your post maybe the question you should answer first is - what are you doing differently/what about your daily routine have you changed? (you said that pumping out was a new problem)

And please……….i’m not trying to pick on you, just suggesting that answering the questions above would allow people to provide some tips and tricks that you could actually make use of……..

 

tina s.
Member
Posts: 9
tina s.
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 23, 2007, 20:05

Actually Suzy, yes I have been lazy.  I have been climbing to maintain and not to improve.  The beautifull thing about this sport is that you truely do get out what you put in.  Of all the sports that I have ever been apart off, none reward good solid training like climbing does. 

tina s.
Member
Posts: 9
tina s.
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 23, 2007, 23:52

I appreciate all the responses, as I am very frustrated about this new problem.

History:  I have been climbing for 7 years, 5.9 Trad and tend to only climb 11’s sport.  I could work a 12 and eventually send, but much prefer climbing at my comfort level.  When I do train at the gym, I usually climb about 8-10 top ropes, working from 8’s - 11’s.  I will then Lead two climbs, a 9 if available and then finish on a 10.  I will admitt that I do not warm down enough, but I don’t think that my warm down is causing the pump.  Large holds cause me no problems, I can shake out and move along.  When things get thinner is when I just can not recover.  I milk every hold I can, but am starting to think that maybe I am spending to much time on the wall. 

That is my back ground, my warm up is fine, and I climb in the gym twice a week and either boulder or climb routes on the weekend.  I am dumbfounded.  All of the advice given to me to this point is good, but I am quite aware of all these techniques.  Can someone elaborate on something refered to as pulse gripping?

mstyles
Member
Posts: 15
mstyles
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 24, 2007, 09:24

Stolz,

It probably had to do with lack of training ( he was probably over training before and the rest period actually made him stronger).

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: PUMPING OUT OF CONTROL
on: May 24, 2007, 15:23

Tina– Ok,. you’re going to hate this, but I have to tell it anyway.  A friend of mine went to kentucy to climb.    This guy has sport climbed a fair bit but at the time his hardest send was an 11a on bolts.  Also he works as a machinist so he has long hours and not  much climbing time.  Oh yeah and he smokes.  After a 2 stopover, red-eye all-nighter, car rental hassles, etc, they arrived at the crag at about 11 a.m., bleary-eyed, and went out for a look.  he decided, what the hell, let’s try something.  He onsighted a route.  A few days later they got a guidebook…and it was a 12b!  No training, no sleep, no food…

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

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