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vram1974
Member
Posts: 189
vram1974
Post The Ultimate Everything
on: June 4, 2007, 00:58

Note to self: don’t do it again in sun-scorching weather.

The .11b free version crux is a heartbreaker after 16 pitches of, albeit easy, climbing. I gave it a halfhearted effort and pulled on the draw because I was dehydrated and out of water four pitches from the summit.

BETA: Do you use the two crimps? Or do you gaston and layback that flake to the right?

stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post Re: The Ultimate Everything
on: June 4, 2007, 17:56

It’s a short boulder problem. The 5.10 out left is by far the better finish, but if you are trying to free that final move go for it, well protected.

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: The Ultimate Everything
on: June 5, 2007, 03:56

Mason is right, the left-hand trad finish is MUCH nicer and probably the best pitch on the route.  I did the rightward one once and recall looking at some kind of horrendous, there-is-no-way-this-will-ever-work kind of layback, which much to my surprise ended up working.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

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