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clc
Member
Posts: 31
clc
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 6, 2007, 03:02

‘Wings of Desire’ in Skaha was FFA on gear then retro-bolted later

colind
Member
Posts: 20
colind
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 6, 2007, 03:23

I think first ascentionists need to consider whether they are giving the climbing community a route or taking one away. That said, a pure trad route deserves to be bolt free, but once the drill is out, R and X routes have no place. Good work Sonnie! 

brews
Member
Posts: 15
brews
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 6, 2007, 03:54

seriously though, I think it’s only on the basis of the style of the FA that chopping the bolts of a long-standing untouched project. someone can get as bored only climbing 10% of the routes when they hit a threshold they cant pass. It wouldn’t justify chopping bolts to make the climbs they can do more interesting. Only the FA rule makes sense.

Yes I wholeheartedly agree Prez. If I only knew the appropriate witchdoctor for the 5.14 curse…maybe I could get a one day plan. A very well guarded secret that those guys are sworn to keep from us.  

mstyles
Member
Posts: 15
mstyles
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 6, 2007, 14:16

bunch of armchair critics on this forum. go big or go home.

congrats sonnie that is amazing!

jenny
Member
Posts: 46
jenny
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 7, 2007, 00:18

So just to be clear Flashman.

The Path is not a new independent line but rather a previously bolted extension to an already existing sport route.

Correct?

flashman
Member
Posts: 123
flashman
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 7, 2007, 01:55

Call me an armchair critic if you must, but who else is speaking up for the 5.14 sport climbers, who now have one less route to enjoy? I don’t know if folks are just intimidated by Sonnie -his obviously menacing presence- or are afraid that if they speak out -aka rock the boat- they might lose their sponsorship from Flashed or the Roasterie.
Sport climbing is not a crime, but it’s under attack these days from all sides.
Somebody shows up at the Back of the Lake, strips the bolts from the Wicked Gravity extension, rehearses it for like 5 months, and eventually sends it and on top of all this indignity has the audacity to *rename the route*? Well, call me a maverick, a loose cannon with nothing left to lose, but perhaps there are limits to these ‘First Ascensionist’s’ rights.

flashman
Member
Posts: 123
flashman
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 7, 2007, 03:13

jenny, this is one possible interpretation. What there is is a 5.11 line, originally climbed on gear, but since retrobolted, and at the same time the pitch directly above was bolted. This pitch is what Mr Trotter has claimed to be ‘The Path’, but many consider it to be simply an obvious continuation of the existing classic, Wicked Gravity.

In much the same way as Europeans will never utter the word ‘Realization’, I expect that for many people, this route will always just be ‘Wicked Gravity’.

sark astiq
Member
Posts: 252
sark astiq
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 7, 2007, 09:16

Everybody is talking about bolt chopping like it is a bad thing. I ask you, is a nose job a bad thing? Is a hysterectomy a bad thing? Not really. So what’s so bad about some cosmetic surgery to correct an unsightly bolt infestation?

pepe le poseur
Member
Posts: 14
Mark
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 7, 2007, 10:04

Maybe there is a double standard…..what if Paris Hilton had chopped it?

(frankly, I don’t even know what I mean)

Pepe Le Poseur

weak and fat
Member
Posts: 2
weak and fat
Post Re: Sonnie Trotter - the Path
on: September 7, 2007, 22:37

every hard route climbed by Sonny in the first years of his career were sport.  Now he has the strength and expeirience to climb spooky trad.  All I can say is you shouldn’t forget were you came from.  I started on spooky trad, at a lower grade.  I’ve never had the urge to chop existing bolts on anything.  I’ve seen numerous unrecorded routes I climbed on clean gear retro bolted.  So what.  In climbing I learned the hard way…. Pride goith before the fall.

Peace, there’s enough room for everyone.    

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