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Author	Topic: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish

stone_mason

Member
Posts: 132

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 17, 2007, 08:52

Paradise Boulders — many!! Scenic, quite, upgraded, clean and good landings and shhhhhhh……Damn would I like to do the boulder that backs onto the pristine-crystal-clear creek…. but I won’t - some boulders are just too perfect….

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Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

jack fieldhouse

Member
Posts: 17

20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 17, 2007, 15:52

It’s raining now so here’s a question to ponder as you dream of dry rock. What are your fav. boulder probs in Squish? Any grade, any style, what would make your list? Imagine you had to tell a friend 20 probs that stand out among the rest. Trent?

trent

Member
Posts: 170

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 18, 2007, 00:25

Well, I thought about This Monkey. Long and hard. But decided that the landing bumped it out of the running. But I did forget Golden Boy, which despite the ghetto of Animal Magnetism, is a great line.

Bates Motel is a bit grainy still, but it’s pretty new. AND the Chungs did it by stepping off the boulder (starting on the fat pinch). Bates Motel (the real deal) starts on the arete, feet on the ground. Maybe they did it like that, but I doubt it - I scrubbed off enough moss to suggest that they didn’t. I worked it with Vince back in the day, and we were starting off the high pinch, clearly not the entire line. I’m a bit of a purist about these things… Presentational Image

I do like how you worked the ‘death theme’ into your response, though. Very thematic, good use of motif.

Like I said, the list is definitive. There might be a little room for movement on some of the suggestions (like maybe we could include Wide Dyke (V0) and bump off ATD), but it’s solid. Pony up your own list… if you dare!

matt

Member
Posts: 15

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 18, 2007, 05:06

Looking at your list Trent I see that you’ve lost your mind. One Bates Motel is a pile of choss. I broke holds and crystals on that heap. And another good question is the name of Bates Motel you might want to run that name past the Chung’s they climbed that years back and left it for dead. Or in the back of a car slowly sinking into a pond.

Though Mantra is a very good problem I’d say top ten in the V8’s in Squamish. I should show you the video I have of Tim doing the first ascent.

And how can any Squamish list not have This Monkey?

trent

Member
Posts: 170

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 18, 2007, 06:05

One more question… does anyone know the name of the very easy (but tall) problem to the right of Plan Insanity? I cleaned it up all nicely last weekend (and filled the hole at the landing), so hopefully it’ll get more traffic. But I don’t know the name. Anyone? I think Colin Dorward may have climbed it first, but I’m not sure. Jack?

trent

Member
Posts: 170

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 18, 2007, 07:54

Well, since I’ve been prodded… I imagine that I can make a list. Remember, though, that this is a definitive list. Any problems I haven’t done aren’t likely as good as those I have. Also, it doesn’t include any problems from peripheral areas (Paradise, Pemberton, or the Fraser Valley).

In no particular order, and including problems of all grades…

1) Mantra (V8 )
2) Titanic (V4)
3) Cheese Grater (V1)
4) High Vee Zero (V0)
5) Viper (V5)
6) Dance Lab (V4)
7) Wormworld Cave (V9)
8 ) Heartbreak Hotel (V2)
9) Bates Motel (V9)
10) Sel de la Terre (V0-)
11) Phat Slab (V4)
12) The Resurrection (V8 )
13) Kung Fu Fighter (V7) (that’s right, Jack, V7)
14) Shots Fired (V4)
15) Chicken Burger and The Devil (V2)
16) Superfly Slab (V0) (better than Superfly)
17) Chris’ Arete (V8 )
18 ) Anal Tongue Darts (V7)
19) Slap Happy (V4)
20) Loose Change (V6) (almost didn’t make it because it’s a little painful)

All right, I could go on and on.. you’ll notice some omissions - Easy Chair and Superfly are out (too polished, too short), as are Sesame Street (too traversey), and Fried Ant and Squamish Days (too ugly).

I’d probably change a few problems if I thought about it a bit, but it’s a good first take.

Trent.

jack fieldhouse

Member
Posts: 17

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 18, 2007, 15:48

Nicely done, Trent! Except for the V7 Kung Fu thing. We’ll have to go there and straighten you out with some beta.

I’m not sure which prob you are referring to by Planned Insanity but I’ll check it out, for sure.

Anybody else want to chime in with a list of their favs in Squish?

jack fieldhouse

Member
Posts: 17

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 18, 2007, 19:17

Yeah, yeah, pony up your own list if you dare! (hiding behind Trent) ;P

trent

Member
Posts: 170

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 19, 2007, 02:25

Slopey, I also thought about replacing WormWorld Cave with WormWorld Low - which in some ways is a better problem - but stuck with the original line. And SUTSDTHB is too weird. It therefore is struck from the list of classics.

I also thought about The Weasel. It was a tough call, but decided that while I think it’s a great problem, people’s opinion of it seem to vary widely, so it also gets struck from the roll call.

A more important list - which I won’t write right now - would be the best 5 problems of each grade in Squamish (including VB as it’s own grade). Then, visitors would have a quick reference to find the best lines at their level.

One more thing - Shelley reminded me that I forgot The Wild Kingdom (V3/4) in the North Walls. That is a seriously great problem, and I apologize for it’s omission.

There’s also a V3ish slab high in the north walls, right beside the Squaw Trail about half-way up to the Squaw that’s super - but I don’t know the name. So it didn’t get included.

sark astiq

Member
Posts: 252

Re: 20 Best boulder probs in Squamish
on: October 19, 2007, 04:25

no Ride the Lightning?

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