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p.o.
Member
Posts: 125
p.o.
Post Foot condom
on: November 26, 2007, 06:49

So for me it is new shoe time. And I think I may be risky and leave my 5.10 ways (probably be back soon).
And I was thinking about getting the magical ‘Solution’ from La Sportiva. These things as amazing as everyone say they are?

Since it is winter I am gonna be in the gym, sport and bouldering. What has your experience been.

Worth the $$?
Anything better I should look at?

stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post Re: Foot condom
on: November 26, 2007, 13:20

Wear Two. Put Tiger Balm between them, and you are good to go. Next time One breaks you’re sure to know…At least that is whet someone told me?

If that doesn’t work try La’sportiva mytho’s.

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

sark astiq
Member
Posts: 252
sark astiq
Post Re: Foot condom
on: November 26, 2007, 15:37

you should get some fruit boots. having a 2 inch spur on the back of your heel is way better than some madrock ribbed rubber

toivo
Member
Posts: 66
toivo
Post Re: Foot condom
on: November 26, 2007, 20:58

i haven’t tried those yet but if the last is similar sportivas fit way different than 5.10s. if you like your foot turned down into a clinging claw, kind of like what i imagine a teradactyl claw would be in rubber, then it may be the shoe for you.

where have your feet been anyways?

osa
Member
Posts: 11
osa
Post Re: Foot condom
on: December 8, 2007, 06:08

i tried them.  theyre pretty good.  i was surprised how well they smeared despite their down camber.  good on overhangs and comfy.  i dont know about your foot, but i find sportiva fit my narrow feet and dont always fit those wider footed 5.10 dye hards.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Foot condom
on: December 8, 2007, 14:33

Mythos are amazing for slab and crack climbing, and not so good for boulders/gym/overhanging sport routes.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

p.o.
Member
Posts: 125
p.o.
Post Re: Foot condom
on: December 11, 2007, 04:51

What of these Evolv shoes there is so much buzz about? They slick on the feet?

kinnikinik
Member
Posts: 33
kinnikinik
Post Re: Foot condom
on: December 11, 2007, 07:33

I’ve been using some evolve velcro slippers. Seem to work well on cold coarse rock, crack and face. I have feet that are very wide, and difficult to fit(no sportiva). 

marc
Member
Posts: 35
marc
Post Re: sportiva solutions
on: December 16, 2007, 16:29

Have had the Solutions for a full season now - well, at least since May. I’ve put them through the full gambit of sport, boulders, indoor - here’s my 2 cents:

Pros: Fit (comfy), keep their shape (once finished stretching), performance on steeper stuff (>10 Deg vert), heel hooking, rubber is durable, quality craftsmanship, superior design

Cons: everybody has em Presentational Image, stretching, middling performance on slabs (you don’t want these on your feet for the greasy slab traverse of Dark Dance at Acephale), edging (go with another shoe for those edgy testpieces), some pairs have the vibram logo imprint right at sweet spot of big toe - would quicken rubber wear if this the case, heavier than some shoes, probably can’t resole and get the same performance (unless you send them back to Italy to get it done).

Worth the money? Yep.

Here is how I would size them:

So street shoe 10 = 40.5
9 - 39.5
8 - 38.5 etc

Don’t worry if they seem ungodly tight while you sit in your living room watching TV - they stretch out quickly to a point I was seriously thinking I got too big of a size. Keep in mind these kinds of shoes are meant to be worn looser than other shoes out there to encourage good toe grab on the streeps.

Happy shopping,

Marcus

 

 

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