yes - in this case, ’safer’ climbing is weak.
Bolted belays is one thing - but they should not have replaced the pins with bolts (nor pins, although if done properly this is a viable option) - they should have left it alone.  In making it ’safe’ they have completely altered the nature of the climb and it’s long and noteworthy history.  The first ascent was done by John Turner in 1961 (without the benefit of modern equipment which makes the climb much more protectable than years gone by) - well ahead of its time - a la Royal Robbins - an impressive feat that has now been tainted.

weak and sad …

Two bolts were placed at each of the three belays on the face. One bolt was placed next to a cedar tree near the start of the climb (to prevent slinging of the cedar). Four other bolts were placed in separate locations where pitons were already in place, but no longer reliable. Two other bolts were placed near piton scars, where pitons had either fallen out or been removed, and no other gear could be placed. All of the equipment and gear was provided by the OAC.

PJF, are you defending the position of the OAC or criticizing my use of the word unilateral? If it’s the latter I understand that there were many people involved but suggest that perhaps their decision to focus on this particular route was somewhat self-serving, especially considering the outcome. I understand I am entitled to my opinion but certainly wouldn’t go so far as to disagree with bolting “any rock”. I am a huge proponent of sport climbing but feel, as do many, a line needs to be drawn on what should or shouldn’t be bolted. As for joining the OAC or ACC, why bother; in my opinion it’s an elitist organization protecting its own interests, i.e. Bon Echo. If they really want to do something progressive why not lift the bolting ban for everyone and try to infuse some new vision into the area.

I agree with Dave, if bolts were added to kill run outs that is weak. Its elements like this that gives a route character and a reputation. I’m sure the OAC could go around and replace lots of pins with bolts but that doesn’t make it right.

Bolts were added to kill the two runouts that made the climb intimidating. Get a grip, its only 5.9, sorry boys, pin scars, even if you could clearly see them, don’t mean bolts go here. None of the old guys I spoke to, some of whom had done the climb just a few years ago, ever knew of a piton on those runouts. the UIAA (which the ACC belongs to) statement on bolting, To bolt or not to be said that redevelopment should be limited to frequently climbed routes -which the Joke was not- and runouts should not be neutralized by additional bolts. don’t take the edge off a runout. While they say a route should not be subject to redevelopment against the will of the first ascensionist that hardly means that the first ascensionist has permanent intellectual rights to authorize alterations to a climb. If you had called Harding and asked if he thought it was alright to put a via ferrata up the Nose and he said yes, woould you have the right to do it? Of course not. If you had called Turner and said Don’t worry John, we’re looking after your great route and are making sure no one bolts it. And he said, Shit, forget that, bolt that mutherfucker! according to your argument, you’d have to do it.

In Squamish, Unfinished Symphony for many years was an adventure route because it has loooong runouts with on the crux pitches only ancient pins for pro.  You were looking at 50 footers.  When it was restored, bolts were placed where the pins were and the old pins were removed.  The route is still a headspinner. 

The route’s first free ascentionist, Peter Croft, was asked about replacing pins with bolts.  Croft’s exact words were Sounds good– just keep the route’s character.  He then talked about how in Suicide, Tahquitz etc the same arguments were happening: people wanted to replace ancient pins with bolts; others thought that was sacrilege, bla bla.  He pointed out that until the mid-’80s, pins were much more practical than drilling, since you can pound a pin in a couple of minutes vs 45 minutes per hand-drilled bolt in granite, and so pins were meant to be treated as bolts are now.  He also said that it was, to him, sensible to replace pins with bolts.  If you are going to have fixed gear, let it be safe.