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grippedalex
Member
Posts: 58
Alex
Post Banff/Bugaboos in June
on: March 3, 2008, 21:19

Hi,

My fiancee and I just decided where we’re going to go on our honeymoon- Banff. I’m sure I could do a couple of internet searches and come up with a large list of excellent climbs to do in the area, but since Gripped has such a large and vocal contingent of Alberta climbers, I thought I’d just post here and ask advice:

1. If you’ve climbed in the area, what climbs can you recommend (we’d be looking at both long alpine trad routes and possibly sport routes) (I’m more interested in the long alpine rock).

2. If you’ve climbed in the area, is there anything particular to Banff in early June that I should be aware of?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Alex

flashman
Member
Posts: 123
flashman
Post Re: Banff/Bugaboos in June
on: March 10, 2008, 21:49

Early June might be a bit too early in the season for many of the alpine routes in the Selected Alpine Climbs - approaches to peaks behind the Bow Valley would still be snowed under well into June. The multipitch routes on Yam, EEOR, Castle Mountain, maybe even Sentinel at Moraine Lake would be fine.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Banff/Bugaboos in June
on: March 11, 2008, 22:19

Yeah, Yam is great.  Very few bolts or pins, bomber granite, almost no loose rock, plus it faces north, and the approach is only five minutes.  Good thing you aren’t climbing in that hell-hole Squamish.

No, seriously, Yam rocks– it faces south, so is warm and dries quickly, and even the routes at a moderate grade (e.g. Kahl Wall, The Bowl, Forbidden Corner) are awesome, either for position, moves or terror factor (usually solid but always manageable) or all three.  Helmets mandatory.

The back of the lake has sensational cragging on gear and bolts, just avoid it on weekends.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

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