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jody
Member
Posts: 95
jody
Post National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 1, 2008, 17:53

Hey All,
Coyote is proud to announce that it will be hosting the First Annual National Aid Climbing Championships May 17th and 18th.  There will be two categories: Clean Aid and Classic Aid for all you piton junkies. 
All the clean aid will be done indoors, onsight, self belayed. Recreational will start at C1 and Open at C4. There will be four routes for both Rec and Open, with climbers running concurrently one hour on, then one hour off and so forth. Winners will be decided based on three criteria: Speed of ascent, pieces placed, and overall style.  Style points will be awarded by celebrity judge David Bowie. 
All the classic aid routes will be done outside in the general vicinity of Coyote.  Rec will start at A1 and Open will start at A4 We’ve been eying some pretty rad seams so bring your bird beaks and bashies!  As with the clean aid category, there will be four routes running concurrently but with two hours on, two hours off due to the lameness of nailing and the length of approach.  Winners will be decided by speed of ascent, amount of gear hauled, and ground falls survived.
We’ve secured generous sponsorship from Fish, JRAt, and Ed Leeper, so you can bet you’ll be knee deep in haulbags, harnesses, and cam hooks if you win this one!  Register early as we only have two hundred spots.  Please send your Name, E-mail and Portaledge size to iknowyoudontreallybelieveme@aidclimbnoway.nailitup.com.

Hope to see you all there at what we hope will be the next big thing in Canadian competition climbing.  The future is now!

K.P.D.
Jody

jody
Member
Posts: 95
jody
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 2, 2008, 00:44

Toivo,
The very notion of climbers camping on an indoor wall is preposterous!  This is the aid climbing and it is very serious.

K.P.D.
Jody

toivo
Member
Posts: 66
toivo
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 2, 2008, 06:35

very forward thinking. yes, forward, to the future.

can competitors camp on the wall for the pure exhileration of altitude?

this reminds me, camping at the crags north of kenora with a group. two of the climbers from manitoba had constructed their own portaledge over the winter (in itself a measure of desperate energies) and were intent on trying it out. they slept halfway up a 50m crag while the rest of us discussed french existentialism. does existence precede essence? i don’t know. but any chance to bivy- take it.

toivo
Member
Posts: 66
toivo
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 2, 2008, 15:03

totally. if you change your mind though i’ve got dibs on the grand-roof. and of course 100% clean ethics. because poo bombs stink from any altitude.

the future needs aid. it’s like erosion with a hammer.

alb
Member
Posts: 48
alb
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 3, 2008, 12:17

You’re a visionary Jody, simply visionary. 

Just a couple of things.  My experience is that showers, at sign up, before, and after the event will be will be critical … for the audience and judges.  Also don’t let the competitors near the music, or you’ll hear nothing but hours and hours of pink floyd.

al

My early money is on D.P.J. in rec category.  If there was a pulling on draws category I’d sign up.

jody
Member
Posts: 95
jody
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 3, 2008, 16:35

Alb,
Showers are up to the competitors and its already been decided that there will be no Pink Floyd.  Instead we will have a B.O.C. cover band playing continuously through qualifiers, followed by Richard Cheese doing lounge covers of Right Said Fred songs for finals.
I will address your E-mail to me publicly so as to keep the number of repeat questions to a minimum.
As per Article 6, Subsection 4 of the CACA (Competitive Aid CLimbers Association) manual:Cheatersticks will measure no more than three meters in length and no more than 12.5 mm in diameter.
Regarding the use of bolt kits as per Article 8, Subsection 3
Bolt kits are allowed but may only consist of one hand drill and bit, and a maximum of four bolts of any diameter no longer than fifty milimeters on length.
Competitors will be sent a copy of all CACA rules and regulations once they have registered and will be expected to be familiar with all of them before the event.  We don’t want this to be the fiasco that Regionals was now do we.
We expect this will be a great event and look forward to seeing you all there.  Just a note that there are only eighty spots left.

Yours in aid,
Jody and the Coyote Crew
p.s.
Doug you are definetly in Open

jody
Member
Posts: 95
jody
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 3, 2008, 17:39

Sark Astiq,
This is the National Aid Climbing Nationals, not some circus show.  From here on in lets try and keep these posts on topic.

K.P.D.
Jody

sark astiq
Member
Posts: 252
sark astiq
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 3, 2008, 20:31

Are you going to have a Rappelling Competition too?
Maybe a Highball Falling Comp with people jumping off from higher and higher spots onto the same single Fat Bastard crash pad?

jody
Member
Posts: 95
jody
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 4, 2008, 03:56

Mike B,
Due to the shortness of routes, everything will be done onsight, sans topo.  There will however be a reccomended gear list provided to all competitors once they register.
There will be no free climbing in the classic division but expect some free moves in the clean division.  In Rec expect free climbing up to 5.4, and up to 5.8 in Open.  Of course there will never be more than three consecutive free climbing moves, as per CACA regulations.
As far as practicing at the gym goes: Hooks Yes! Hammers No!

Sark Astiq,
You’ll just have to be patient and wait for our Dry Tool Classic coming up in the fall.

Silver,
I hate to make you choose.  You know that wherever and whatever I’m setting, I always try my best.  I didn’t know you were an aid guy.

noahz
Member
Posts: 106
noahz
Post Re: National Aid Climbing Championships @ Coyote Rock Gym May 17/18th
on: April 4, 2008, 04:45

rofl, I don’t think theres any gear strong enouhg to hold Dustin or his man boobs

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http://www.batcaveclimbing.com/

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