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dustin curtis
Member
Posts: 17
dustin curtis
Post Finals Format
on: April 23, 2008, 03:00

I heard that Western Regional Finals was held in a different format. I also heard that this format is the one that will be used at Nationals. Can someone explain to me what this new format is?

danimal
Member
Posts: 84
Dan
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 23, 2008, 06:09

It’s simple but takes a long time to get through when there’s ten people.  It works like this.

All competitors are in isolation.  All the men come out and have a preview of the first boulder problem for two minutes.  Then all competitors go back into isolation and the first climber comes out and has 4 minutes on the first problem.  And as long as you are on the wall in the 4 minute mark you can’t be called off if the time expires.  The next climber comes out immediately when that climber finishes on the problem, even if it’s before the 4 minutes expires, and has their 4 min, etc.  Once all climbers have tried the problem they preview the second problem for two minutes, then first climber out for 4 min, and on and on for four problems.  So with 10+ people it takes a long time unless everybody flashes everything.  But it allows for harder problems and more rest inbetween.  Climbers go to a secondary iso, or stay out and watch the rest of the climbers.  Questions?

D

chris neve
Member
Posts: 79
Chris
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 23, 2008, 14:12

Hey, Dustin!

Glad you brought this up - I have an email almost ready to be sent out to all CEC-registered open climbers to describe this new format. It is a little different but it will also be the format that Vail will use for the World Cup so a great opportunity for everyone planning on going there to try it out here first.

I will also post a link on this forum to the format descirption when it gets posted on the CEC website, for those who are not registered with the CEC.

Chris Neve
CEC Adult Climbing Coordinator
http://www.competitionclimbingcanada.com
cecadult@competitionclimbingcanada.com

Chris

chris neve
Member
Posts: 79
Chris
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 23, 2008, 16:42

And the crowds like it too! Presentational Image

Chris

sean mccoll
Member
Posts: 14
sean mccoll
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 23, 2008, 19:47

Hey everyone,

 

I just wanted to add that this format will only be used in finals at Vail and also in Edmonton.  The reason it works very well in WC competitions is because the top 6 competitors are usually very close in ability and it’s supposed to be more entertaining for the crows.

 

Sean

sean mccoll
Member
Posts: 14
sean mccoll
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 24, 2008, 03:34

I’m confused why you think it removes the onsight part of the competition.  When you’re previewing, you still have to try and onsight the problem…  The only thing now is that you can possibly share beta with other climbers in finals… or you can do your own thing and not talk to anyone.  This has been the finals format for the past 2 years in all WC boulder events.  It’s just like in WC lead comps, everyone goes out and previews, then they climb in a little bit later.  The winner is the strongest and definately the best climber.

slopey
Member
Posts: 156
pete
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 24, 2008, 09:14

i have to admit crushing disappointment in this format.  it completely removes the skillset of being able to onsight a problem, this is often how comps are won. this way, we are moving back towards the victory going to the strongest climber, not the *best* climber.

is this how all WC finals are being run currently?  or is it just proposed for Vail.

_____________________

check your head.

rock scaling = yes.

danimal
Member
Posts: 84
Dan
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 25, 2008, 12:14

Riiiiiiight Mike, because climbing the Mandala is a joke, anyone can do that, it obviously shows how incredibly weak you are……

Oh, and there’s five problems for finals so it’ll probably be a three day event……..

mike doyle
Member
Posts: 41
Mike
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 25, 2008, 16:45

With regards to needing to get stronger with this format, that’s actually what the IFSC wants. The previous format of five minutes on, five minutes off put quite a bit of emphasis on fitness and recovery, not as much emphasis on power and strength. Most of the top World Cup boulderers in the past have been sport climbers, used to recovering quickly while the typical boulderers tend to wait 30 minutes between attempts. The IFSC is hoping that with more rest between problems the problems can be harder and more focused on bouldering.

The scoring format is the same with priority give to the most number of boulder problems topped out, then the number of tries to get to the top of those problems, then the number of zone holds controlled, then the number of tries to get to those zone holds. Taking your time and making the most of your flash attempt is still important.

As for getting stronger… looks like I’m relegated to permanent routesetter status now… oh well.

Climbing is not a sport. It is a lifestyle.
my homepage

slopey
Member
Posts: 156
pete
Post Re: Finals Format
on: April 25, 2008, 22:14

I guess i’m thinking pure onsight, just you and your beta.  i know without a doubt that there are people who pick up beta previewing in a group that they would not have seen otherwise.  i’m by no means suggesting that this format is bad or wrong, just that at our skill level, there is often a bigger gap in onsigt abilities vs. pure strength.  we’ve all watched ladies and gents in the finals of a boulder comp, try the same, bad, sequence 4 times in a row and not send… *that’s* the part of onsighting that i like… the chance be be smarter than someone who is stronger than you.

i didn’t realize that the WC format had been like this for awhile, but given that it is, it clearly makes sense for us to adopt the format.  time to get stronger i guess eh?

 

_____________________

check your head.

rock scaling = yes.

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