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changlama
Member
Posts: 26
changlama
Post CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: June 24, 2008, 09:33

MEDIA RELEASE
For Immediate Release – June 24, 2008

CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD - JULY 17

The Squamish Mountain Festival will honour climbers of the past and present with an award named in honour of one of the pioneers of Squamish climbing.  The Jim Baldwin Memorial award is sponsored by Mountain Equipment Co-op and will be presented annually to the climber or team of climbers that demonstrate boldness, innovation or significance in the climbing of a new route in the Squamish area.  Each year the award will be presented to a past and present day recipient.

“The idea was to commemorate the ground-breaking climbs of past generations while at the same time acknowledging the great climbs that are still happening out there today,” said festival producer, Ivan Hughes.

The award in named for Jim Baldwin who was involved in many first ascents in Squamish, including Peasants’ Route in 1958, the area’s first technical climb.  He wrote the first Squamish climbing guide, and made the first ascent of Grand Wall with Ed Cooper in 1961.  Baldwin then traveled down to Yosemite Valley where he participated in the first ascent of Dihedral Wall on El Capitan in 1962 where it was only the third route on that cliff. He died in a rappelling accident on Washington Column in 1964, and is commemorated by a bronze plaque at what is now known as Memorial Ledge, above the Apron.

A large steel and granite trophy has been commissioned for the award that will stand almost 3 feet tall and be inscribed with the winners’ names and the routes they completed. It will be on display at the Squamish Adventure Centre following the festival.

The festival will present the award to the past and present day recipients at the Howe Sound Brew Pub on Thursday, July 17 as part of the Steep Shot Climbing Photography competition night. Tickets to the event are available on-line at http://www.squamishmountainfestival.com or at Valhalla Pure, Climb On and the Squamish Adventure Centre.

matt maddaloni
Member
Posts: 23
Matt
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: June 29, 2008, 03:21

I think this is a bad idea…

What if Great White North wins, a bold and hard route. Does this mean safe and moderate is wrong?

What if Europa wins, a safe and moderate route. Does this mean hard and bold is wrong?

Climbing is about freedom of expression, not who is better.

my two cents
mm

alb
Member
Posts: 48
alb
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: June 29, 2008, 04:00

Heh, I’m just looking foreword to seeing the winner lift the trophy overhead.

al

stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: June 29, 2008, 09:37

There is nothing wrong with recognising accomplishments!!

I suppose the honourable thing to do would be for the sponsor to leave the company name/logo off the trophy but seriously, someone had to pay for it. Assuming that it is not ‘you’ , there is no excuse to be that opinionated (assuming you think the trophy is a good idea and not the sponsors logo).

Trouble is, sponsor names are on every event, ticket, poster, media, etc because every bit counts… having said that, and been someone whom has made event posters on Whistler/blackcomb, If you are the sole sponsor the more honourable thing to is leave your name off it and let word of mouth get you advertising. If multiple people pay for an event/trophy - some MORE than others - the greater sponsor should get the most recognition. I understand the inner workings of logos, sizes etc.

it’s capitalist for sure, but unless you pay for something through hard work or money, it makes it hard to argue against positive gesture such as a trophy.

word.

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

chicken sandwich
Member
Posts: 13
chicken sandwich
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: June 29, 2008, 16:48

MM said:

I think this is a bad idea…

Notice the several commercial enterprises mentioned in the first post.
Notice the commercial enterprises advertising to the left.

Take a deep breath and let it go.

Climbing serves other purposes than freedom of expression.

I try to ignore those purposes but I’ll take the gear, thanks.

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: June 30, 2008, 12:24

I agree with Matt,

To a point. I think for me the problem is that you would need to have awards for almost every kind of a achievement a climb brings.

changlama
Member
Posts: 26
changlama
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: July 1, 2008, 05:30

I think this sort of thing is important because it serves to remind us about the guys that did some amazing stuff out there on the rock way back when.  There’s so much climbing history in some of those old routes that it would be a shame if everyone forgot about them.

There’s also a lot of really wild stuff still going on that doesn’t always make it into the magazines so why not acknowledge it?

Awards like this are expensive to put together therefore there is a need to get sponsors on board, thanks to Arc’teryx for putting on the festival and to MEC for supporting the award!

matt maddaloni
Member
Posts: 23
Matt
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: July 1, 2008, 15:40

Let us learn from past examples.

-an excerpt from Steve Houses’ commentary on the 14th Piolet d’Or Award.

The Piolet d’Or pretends to award ascents that represent the “evolution” of alpinism. I maintain that the Russian’s ascent of the north face of Jannu is irrelevant to modern alpinism. It is a big disappointment to me that the Piolet committee elected to glorify an ascent done in such horrible style.

At the very least, the jury was consistent. As last year they also gave the Piolet d’Or to an ascent done utilizing style that violates the ideals of the moral alpinist.

Perhaps my reader thinks that I am disappointed or bitter that I did not win the Piolet d’Or. No. This award is not my award and so my ego does not need it. The award belongs to and exists for its creators. Furthermore, it is obvious that with last year’s winners on the jury that I would not win as I am extremely critical of the style of their climb.

My award was successfully climbing K7; fulfilling my vision for alpinism. I went to Grenoble because it is important to represent my vision for alpinism to the public.

-in the end I believe(mm)that an award is only an opinion, one persuaded by politics and monetary value. I believe competition degrades the sport of climbing as I’ve discovered through indoor competitions where I have found myself wishing competitors to fall so that I may rank better, and also through working as a sponsored climber where politics and financial gain has created strife between friends. Once I removed competing against others in climbing, climbing became a whole lot more fun and fulfilling as a lifestyle while maintaining what I love about working in the industry.

jason kruk
Member
Posts: 54
Jason
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: July 2, 2008, 10:52

I vow that if I win I’ll spend the 5 hundy that night..  just gotta convince Trotter ta do the same - he’s a shoe in for the ‘bra crack..

How long?  Not long, ’cause what you reap is what you sow!

jason kruk
Member
Posts: 54
Jason
Post Re: CLIMBERS HONOURED WITH MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL AWARD
on: July 2, 2008, 13:52

Gee.. I feel a little sheepish now.  I completely agree with Chris..

How long?  Not long, ’cause what you reap is what you sow!

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