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Author	Topic: with hesitation…..

stone_mason

Member
Posts: 132

with hesitation…..
on: July 14, 2008, 00:26

…I am posting this.

The new Crap Crags route is seriously dangerous. As far as alpine climbing goes, wild and full of adventure. As far as squamish is concerned, one of the scariest most unprotectable 5.7’s in squamish - hard moves to avoid touching a detached block roof - above well travelled classics. The only clean rock on the entire route is the bolt ladder.

I hope no one gets seriously messed up on this climb (lower sections mostly). Having said that I’m glad to have done it, impressed with the views of Zorro’s, the Dyke and N.L., but would not recommend that route to, well , any 5.7 climbers!!! Recommended apline style route on quite days.

My nomination for: Initiation route of Squamish

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

sark astiq

Member
Posts: 252

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 15, 2008, 12:27

So you’re saying you climbed it during the Falcon Closure? Not cool.

chicken sandwich

Member
Posts: 13

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 16, 2008, 05:46

Europa!

Good views, yes:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/510/IMG_1882.JPG

Danger? definitely:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/510/IMG_1897.JPG

Detached block? I’m not sure I remember any attached blocks. But don’t worry. As long as no one finds the keystone they will hold each other in place.

trad daddy

Member
Posts: 37

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 16, 2008, 07:43

Last I heard the number of breeding pairs of falcons on the chief was in a ’stable but fragile state’. However, this statement just released from BC Parks states:

with the recent sighting of a couple of ignorant climbers skampering their way up Crap Crags, the ascent has had a traumatic affect on the local species who were at the tail end of this critical closure period. In the midst of what is a widely recognized and well respected climbing closure (that even boulderers are aware of) , there has been a catastrophic collapse of the population with near total extinction being a very real possibility. But all was not lost - from what we understand, stone mason got the ’send’.

Apparently there was no badge in the bottom of stone masons cereal box the other day. Perhaps someone may have a medal or award of some sort that could be passed along for this bold ascent?

keep on jammin’

doyle

Member
Posts: 16

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 16, 2008, 10:30

Your a moron, the closure is in everybook and quite obvious.

stone_mason

Member
Posts: 132

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 16, 2008, 10:52

Unknowingly - if you can believe that, and yes it is dangerous. Thankfully I did not see Falcon - I did however see a dead baby bird in the hand crack below the bolt ladder. I can not tell you what type of bird. You could smell it had been there for some time, which is why I did not want put my hand on it. I thought the route was separate from the real Crap Crags so we ventured up after some beta.

Regretfully we did not do Millennium Falcon that day (sat) because we knew about the falcon closer - but was unaware it extended all the way back to the black dyke. Lessons learned but I can go back in time, thank you for picking up on that though. For some reason we thought Europa (sp) was unobtrusive, neither of us looked at the topo that day, that was what made it fun.

John Muir

stone_mason

Member
Posts: 132

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 16, 2008, 14:58

You are right Doyle, I am a moron as it impossible for humans to make mistakes. Obviously I deliberately sent this route despite the closure in order to gloat online to undertstanding persons such as yourself in order boost my ego and gain more friends that climb 5.14. Thanks champ.

While thinking about this, does anyone have factual information as to the Falcon numbers, known nests, birth rate, feeding grounds, and endemic aspects of this ecosystem that includes the Falcon? Is there a group responsible for researching, counting and examining these birds? Is the Falcon growth declining? Is it growing? This information is not on the parks canada website, nor is there any information as to whom to contact at the Chief Park.

Perhaps since the Parks people must have known a new full length route was being cleaned over the past year could have also posted it on the closure notice? As you can see, it is not.

Since I too saw the wasp nest, and judging from the date of the photo, I’m not the only moron, phew.

Yours truly, the moron hangs his head in shame.

John Muir

5.4 slayer

Member
Posts: 27

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 16, 2008, 18:53

uh, just so you know mason, doyle is not mike doyle.

stone_mason

Member
Posts: 132

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 17, 2008, 06:07

WOW, and you are now the spokes person for BC parks ? awesome!

From what I hear, a swath of climbers have been climbing into the closer area (which is obviously wrong) this year.

Perhaps with all the money creating a new parking lot and a fancy round-a-bout, they could pump some money into proper signage, and factual information not just post dates may 31 - July 31st. Which in reality irks me because why would May 30th and Aug 1st be of any less importance?

Why would people build new routes in prime Falcon nesting areas any way? Namely Millenium Falcon and Europa? Are you telling me that that has not destroyed nesting grounds to begin with?

John Muir

doyle

Member
Posts: 16

Re: with hesitation…..
on: July 17, 2008, 12:06

First of all Mason, the falcon closure as it says in EVERY BOOK on squamish climbing is a voluntary CLIMBERS closure. Do you get that, here I will spell it out.

This has nothing NOTHING to do with BC Parks, we as climbers have been respecting the birds nesting grounds since they were first noticed, it is up to you to figure out what routes are closed an open, not some juvenile excuse someone didnt tell me.

Use your head, think for yourself and educate other climbers or we can quickly lose the freedom we are so used too..look at Falcon closures in the states they incorporate vast swaths of rock, to make it easy on the staff they shut it all down.

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