I have to confess I am a little intrigued by this problem.  Assuming that I am trying the correct line, I an curious what the beta is.  It seems obvious what I would do if I were 6′3, but being only 5′10 I am perplexed. 

Does anyone know the person who opened this problem?  I have tried for an hour or so without getting any further than I was the first few tries.  Maybe I just need to be stronger?

Also - I cleaned up the line a lot using a brush and toprope.  Just my opinion… but if you’re going to put up problems, please clean them sufficiently so that the holds are clean and the problem looks like it’s been climbed.  Here on the west coast, things can get mossy fast - but they last a LOT longer if you clean them well in the first place.  Just my two cents.

T.

Simon,

I think we’re talking about the same problem - it looks like 2 boulders stacked on top of each other, with a good undercling in the little roof between the two ‘boulders’.  The most obvious line starts on a long, low positive edge, reaches up to the undercling, then uses a vertical edge (either a gaston or a lieback) to gain a sloper high on the face; from there, a tricky move to a sloping topout.  I’m assuming that this is the problem you (I’m assuming it was you) named Double Decker.

If this is indeed the line you’ve climbed - congrats, it’s certainly a stout problem!  Apparently, this boulder has been named the Darwinian Boulder for years (it looks like it’ll fall over and kill anyone who climbs it).  After your ascent, I cleaned the boulder up and added three more problems - tentatively Darwin’s Riddle (V3), Survival of the Fit (V5, maybe… V6), and Natural Selection (V1, with a a harder topout variant, Unnatural Selection V2 or V3).

Does that description of your problem sound right to you?  What beta did you use?  Sorry to bug you, but I’m really psyched to make progress on the problem and I can’t seem to even hold the sloper above the vertical edge with any degree of confidence. 

Input would be appreciated.

Congrats again on the send.

T.