whilst the idea is a good one.  i disagree with the concept of making the crag fit the climber.

it is quite easy to clean an anchor without ever untying from the rope, this is a technique i would hope most people know.

If you baby proof the crags, people will stop taking the initiative to climb safely.

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check your head.

no doubt we should all know how to rig anchors etc. just seems to me to be safer. darwin is always near at hand. people screw up. would be quicker as well. less waiting around, more time to climb! i will still do my small part in trying to make this happen. to each their own. have fun. doug

i have an idea, which i’m sure many of you have talked about and considered. seems almost all sport climbing accidents happen when a climber is at an anchor attempting to thread or rappel. lately at a lot of crags clip and drop anchors are used on harder sport climbs. this virtually eliminates the need to ever untie whilst on a route, which in turn would eliminate most accidents. there are various forms of clip and drop anchors but really a couple of opposed gate carabiners attached to chain and bolts seems the easiest and cheapest. old biners could be easily changed when found to be worn out. this would be ideal at crags where less experienced climbers are working with anchors. these crags seem to experience the most accidents i’m willing to bet. sport climbing is about pushing your physical [and mental] boundaries. we can leave the anchor knowledge to the mountain folk. i vote we start doing our best to make climbing safer by changing and or adding onto all anchors to make them safer, as well as not taking carabiners left at anchors for this purpose. what do you all think? doug orr, ok falls b.c.

This makes perfect sense at sport crags.  Not stealing the biners seems pretty obvious too.  Todd

I have to pipe up here and say that, while I can see where you are coming from, I think this is generally a bad idea.

There are certainly ways to feed an anchor without ever coming off belay or untying from the rope.  I have no idea why anyone would thread an anchor any differently.

I think the problem with accidents such as these is a simple lack of proper or formal education (ie. guide).  Ever heard of the broken telephone?  I think that allot of new climbers are learning from friends and others at the gym.  Sometimes this works out amazingly well and others not so much.  Anyone planning on or participating in outdoor sport climbing should know how to properly thread an anchor before partaking in that activity (as a minimum).  Its common sense to me.  If anything horrible happens at an anchor, the furthest one should ever fall is to the previous bolt.

Educate. By attempting to fool proof the craigs, we would simply be inviting more un-informed people to participate in a risky activity and generally end up causing more accidents in the long run.