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sark astiq
Member
Posts: 252
sark astiq
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 3, 2008, 02:12

You can put bolts in the sidewalk if you want. Please use good quality hangers though, as they will quickly be removed by myself for placing on other bolts on a real route.

beebe
Member
Posts: 3
beebe
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 3, 2008, 05:36

I understand that your routes are really really hard. But honestly,
how hard would a route have to be before you wouldn’t steal the hangers off it because it wasn’t real?

beebe
Member
Posts: 3
beebe
Post I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 3, 2008, 16:05

Seriously, how easy is too easy to bolt? Seems like every area has too many routes 5.9 and up already. I say maybe 5.3? please note, this is intended as a serious discussion.

alb
Member
Posts: 48
alb
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 4, 2008, 02:17

CMF wrote:
> But to tell you the truth i don’t think i’ve even heard of a 5.3.

Clipity do da, yes a bolted 5.3, can be found a Rumney. 

al

cmf
Member
Posts: 17
Conrad
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 4, 2008, 21:23

5.6 ??? i think i’ve seen a 5.6 outside before.  But to tell you the truth i don’t think i’ve even heard of a 5.3.  And if i was to put up a route, i’d make sure its not running through another route. And that you have someone with you that knows what thier doing.  But don’t take anything i said seriously, lol i’ve never bolted a route…… good luck and have fun

“Happiness is real, only when shared”

trent
Member
Posts: 170
Trent
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 5, 2008, 04:00

Maybe not a 5.0… primarily because it would have shrubs and grass on it.

However, I’ve been on a bolted 5.6, and it was a ton of fun.  I wouldn’t put one up just to do it, but if the rock is good, the climbing is fun, it doesn’t interfere with other routes, and it has interesting holds, go for it. 

If you ask yourself Will people enjoy this?, and the answer is yes, then feel free. 

If you want to be sure, run it by a few people first.

dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 5, 2008, 09:18

Easy routes below 5.6 generally overlap with scrambling. They also tend to follow lines of weakness where abundant natural protection is available if one feels it necessary, where bolts are not needed or appropriate.

Unprotectable routes < 5.6 tend to be very low angle slabs involving mostly handsfree climbing - for instance the opening pitches of Speedway on Yak Peak are given 5.0. These are more of a roped hike than a climb, and bending over almost double to clip bolts on the ground isn’t very fun. In point of fact though, they only have anchor bolts.

trent
Member
Posts: 170
Trent
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 10, 2008, 16:08

While I hesitate to disagree with anything that Dru says… Presentational Image

I have been on a nearly vertical, bolted, 20m 5.6.  Quartzite, with large incut bucket-edges due to the incline of the bedding plane.

But about slabs I agree with Dru - maybe a bolted 5.5 slab is a bad idea - too much bending over.

T.

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 10, 2008, 23:02

Bolt as you feel safe. If you have the cash and want to put bolts up on a 5.? do it. As long as it is to protect yourself and others. Even on a slab of 5.4 I would feel better if a bolt came my way every 20m’s or so. A 70m roll down a slab is gonna hurt.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: I want to bolt a 5.0
on: November 13, 2008, 10:30

It’s Squamish!  If people can bolt straight-in cracks (at Cheakamus) and also gear routes (at least 3 at Forgotten Wall in Cheak) no reason to worry.  There’s also the final pitch of that route to the left of Ultimate Everything, where there is a bolt in what must be a 5.2 move, and on either side– like 6 feet away– there are walkable sections which include trees moss etc.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

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