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doug
Member
Posts: 36
doug
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: January 20, 2009, 22:06

ok, so lets say you are going out into the bush to walk the dog if you get my point. grab some shoes, chalkbag and maybe a crash pad. whilst wandering aimlessly thru the forest you come across a boulder. peaceful as it may seem you pull out your little blue bag. moments later you have forgotten what the hell you are supposed to be doing, sitting on your ass lost in the forest below some scrappy boulder. with glassy eyes you get your shoes on and start grabbing at that boulder. a few more tries on the boulder and the blue bag and the proudest line north of midnight lightning is born. cant wait to tell the whole world about this one. pretty sure sean mccoll couldn’t flash this one. OR SO YOU THINK! returning with friends to show off you realize you can’t find the mega boulder. thrash thru the bush wishing you had the little blue bag to make this unglamorous part of bouldering more fun. aahaa! the line! dude it doesn’t look that hard or exciting your buddy tells you.  try it you plead knowing soon they wil see the light. bastard doesn’t even put on rock shoes, sends it first try and then downclimbs it. yeah weed is fun but …… i forgot where i was going with this, and i’m hungry. doug

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: January 24, 2009, 04:44

I ahve probably already told this one online but since I started this…

Some years ago two friends of mine, new to climbing, made the long drive out from Calgary and were blown away by the awesome rock of Squamish and the sensational bud, which they bought a bunch on of arriving at Psyche Ledge.

Two days later they did the Buttress, and, after finishing the crux pitch, dangled their legs off the edge in the dusk, fired up a bat, and enjoyed the magnificent sunset.  An hour after the sun had dipped behind the Tantalus, they started in on the last 5.7 pitch.  Unfortunately, there was neither moon, in the sky, topo at hand nor headlamp in pocket, and so, baked, dehydrated and totally lost, our heroes spent a couple of hours thrashing around the ledges and bushes, holding their lighter aloft, before throwing in the towel and spooning on the ledge. 

And the next morning, they were awoken in the wee hours by voices.  It was Peter Croft and Hamish Fraser, simul-soloing as a warm-up for some epic link-up project.  Fraser didn’t say much but Croft said that, if they were hungry, the 99er had good cheap eats.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: January 25, 2009, 19:40

harihari wrote:
Two days later they did the Buttress, and, after finishing the crux pitch, dangled their legs off the edge in the dusk, fired up a bat, and enjoyed the magnificent sunset. An hour after the sun had dipped behind the Tantalus, they started in on the last 5.7 pitch. Unfortunately, there was neither moon, in the sky, topo at hand nor headlamp in pocket, and so, baked, dehydrated and totally lost, our heroes spent a couple of hours thrashing around the ledges and bushes, holding their lighter aloft, before throwing in the towel and spooning on the ledge.

Is this because they smoked a fatty or is it because they thought they knew where the route was?? Also did they smoke a huge chong before they left the house and that is why they had forgotten all sense of common sense?? Or are they just dumb and climb without a head lamp, water and knowledge all the time. If you plan your day right then even a little weed will not hinder your day. What would they have done even if they had just sat down and had lunch and enjoyed the sunset to long? They still would have been spooning to stay warm without water or food.

Also side note. They tested mice and guess what. The smarter mice ended up being the weed lover mice that had better memory retention then their counter parts who never touched the stuff. Many studies have proved the loss of memory to be a lie. Unless you drink yourself stupid and even then who knows, seems like a good way to excuse your bad behavior from the nite before.

Oh well their goes another excuse for being forgetfull.

sark astiq
Member
Posts: 252
sark astiq
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 2, 2009, 13:06

i’m taking antipsychotics, and they keep me from killing my belayers…

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 2, 2009, 18:37

So what happened. Did you all smoke a fatty and forgot about this thread??

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 2, 2009, 21:43

I’ve gotten some interesting email about this.  Some people think that weed helps with altitude sickness (nausea etc, not the various edemas) and others see it as a kind of organic speed– take it for a massive natural energy boost.  There are a few people who are writing about the fear-reducing effects the freesoloist feels after a beer or two.  Havn’t heard from anybody about antidepressants yet.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 4, 2009, 23:03

I did climb with a guy who was on Adavan and it was a A4 pitch and he had no sense of fear at all, nerves of steel.

I have also been told that others who had huge air under the wall tent, they used Adavan to be able to get sleep and climb out of the tent in the morning.

So go Adavan

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 5, 2009, 04:43

I do agree with that. However I am willing to bet several climbs of any real threat to life have had some sort of chemical along for the ride. I mean come on look at the gear of the 70’s and 80’s!

Thought about this a bit more. Is fear the only reason to climb? What about just being on a climb however you want to be??? Why must you only climb how others want to feel?

Just a thought

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 5, 2009, 21:30

The Ativan and beer thing brings up the question of what kind of experience one is having if you chemically take away fear.  Or what the whole point of climbing is in the first place.

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

bert
Member
Posts: 19
bert
Post Re: Climbing & drugs– your experiences wanted
on: February 8, 2009, 08:43

During my travels through South America I met a fellow who climbed Everest without oxygen.  He was also very partial to mass amounts of the green.

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