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tombreznau
Member
Posts: 1
tombreznau
Post routes at Eagle’s Nest, Bancroft
on: March 26, 2009, 12:26

I am the director of an OB type program at Kalamazoo college in Michigan.  I need info on sites at Eagle’s Nest appropriate for a top-roped climb and sites for a rappel for our program for 18 year olds.  Help please.

dmg
Member
Posts: 1
dmg
Post Re: routes at Eagle’s Nest, Bancroft
on: March 27, 2009, 06:17

I go through there a lot but have never found much in the way of reference information.  Been over a year since I climbed there so thing may have changed a bit. 
The cliff is about 200 feet high in most places and has a few trad lines which go to the top.  They tend to be lines of weakness in the cliff and are a bit chossy.  These lines also tend to require a bit of larger gear, or larger cajones, and there are no bolts at the belays.  There were also a 2 bolted lines in the easy to mid 5.10 range which I know about and were really fun, these have bolted belays about 1/2 way up. 

There is a bit of printed information in the Ontario Select Guide book (Dave Smart guide I think don’t have it handy at present), it references a 5.8 diagonaling line and a 5.11 steep finger crack.  The 5.8 is one of the lines of weakness I refered to above. I’ve never ventured up the 5.11 but it looks nice, again no bolted belays.  While I’m sure you could set some rappels with enough rope the cliff is not at all top rope friendly in my opinion. 
There is often someone climbng there over the summer but rarely more than one party.  Maybe someone else has more information for you.  The cliffs around Milton are much beter suited to your described requirements than the Eagles Nest.

9zero9
Member
Posts: 32
ben
Post Re: routes at Eagle’s Nest, Bancroft
on: March 27, 2009, 07:10

It is only slightly farther to go to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky where the climbing is much nicer than Eagle’s Nest. There is also tons of suitable climbing for what you are describing in Milton just west of Toronto.

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