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frankensteve
Member
Posts: 1
Steve
Post Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 13, 2009, 17:17

Just got the latest edition of the mag. Saw the photo in the gallery section of the route at Blackcombe glacier, BC.
Can anyone please tell me how to find it/get to it, what gear to take etc.
It looks like a totally awesome climb.

There is no spoon.

fred_w
Member
Posts: 6
fred
Post Re: Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 16, 2009, 17:41

Where is a topo to this route?
f

joeyjoey
Member
Posts: 14
joeyjoey
Post Re: Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 17, 2009, 00:08

I agree, the route looks amazing and the photo is awesome. How about contacting the guy who shot it, maybe he has the info?

t-bone
Member
Posts: 18
t-bone
Post Re: Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 17, 2009, 09:24

Spanky’s Wall has 4 sport and 1 gear route.  The climbing isn’t spectacular but the scenery is.  Just Did It WIth My Girlfriend is a stiff 10c…the other routes on the wall are all easier.  IMHO the best line is You’ll Go Blind but maybe that’s ’cause I helped put it up.

A better climb in the Blackcomb Alpine is Showcase Spire - the most unique rock summit in the area.  THere are two options: an 11d sport route and a 5.9 gear route.  You can’t go wrong either way….

dru
Member
Posts: 131
dru
Post Re: Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 17, 2009, 22:18

Details are in the Whistler guidebook.

Info on some routes on the same crag, not that one though, are online at

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Canada/British_Columbia/Whistler__Pemberton__Lillooet/Blackcomb_Mountain/Showcase_Spire/

tifo
Member
Posts: 1
tifo
Post Re: Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 18, 2009, 08:07

Best time of year to climb on Spanky’s Wall is right now until the end of summer.  You can climb all year round, you just have to pick your days.  I shot the photo of Ryan last January, it was really warm on the mountain and since it’s south facing, there’s lots of sun time.  You can check the alpine forecast, web cams and live temperatures on the Whistler Blackcomb website http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com

Cheapest way to do it if you don’t have a season pass obviously, is to purchase a sightseeing ticket or a backcountry access pass.  Walking is an option, but using a snow sliding device makes things much easier to get around.  Pick up a map and locate the 7th Heaven chair or Glacier Chair. The wall is on the north side of the Glacier Chair. I recommend approaching the crag from above instead of from below. There’s three 9s and two 10s and the 10a Ski Bum Come is gear.
You can purchase the Whistler Guide at MEC, Climb On and Valhalla in Squam, and Escape Route in Whistler.
Don’t forget beer, a bunch of friends and something warm in case the wind picks up.  Glad you like the photo and it makes you want to go climb it, a day in the mountains is always good.  Especially when you don’t have to walk the whole way up!
You can visit my site if you want to check out more of my photos:

http://www.tifophotographik.com

Thanks!

Phil

fred_w
Member
Posts: 6
fred
Post Re: Just Did It With My Girlfriend 5.10c
on: April 24, 2009, 14:50

choice
thanks everyone

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