Not that I have ever seen this climb, changing the character of a route sucks, unless the one whom put it up does.

That being said, if you hack off the old bolts you will not have solved the problem but created two and possibly four new holes when buddy comes back.

I’m really against bashing/cutting bolts for personal reasons (unless say someone slams 10 bolts on mercy me) because too often you’re left with another permanent scar. Here in Squamish there are a few. I often find it hysterical when I’m climbing a route, and right beside the shiny new stainless steel bolt, is a relic - rusted(or not) button head, spinning hanger and a short piece of tat just for flair… aww that’s awesome. A little bit of history on route.

If the anchor is 2m off the ground, is it for instruction? slack line? Soloing? curious.

Time to go climbing. good luck

I think he is talking about the drilled pockets

Aren’t there some manufactured (chipped) routes in there?

The chopper is out in Grotto now.

Re-bolting done by JD LeBlanc.
Why? well 1989 original bolts rusted - new ones placed as close as could be safe and in good rock.

The first bolt has a small handhold sized chain anchor on it for the A0 start - as the original Created holds were removed by some crampons and/or ice tools, so the start is missing. Stick clip 1st bolt, climb slab, reach out to bolt, grab draw, then reach to the start of the drilled pockets, then climb the route.

If people don’t like the hold/chain, use a wrench, replace the bolt with a hanger and hammer the bottom bolt in - not a big deal, but you’ll be pulling on a draw … and use the chain on a new route somewhere.

BTW - this is the right route of the WATER WALL drilled trio - established in 1988/1989. Shep’s Diner, The Resurrection and Crimes of Passion. SD and Rez were retro bolted with glue in’s and the original bolts are still there, as they are rusted into place. The retro bolter of SD actually placed a new anchor and sort of altered the line - to most they have no idea, as these things had been redpointed almost 20 years ago …

To Semple if you think it’s mentally comfortized, then clip the old bolts dude, there still there. The new bolts are as close as can be for the creation - good luck on your send - hope you send.

BTW LeBlanc will be rebolting most of his routes in the coming season at ACEPHALE, as most of them are closing in on the 20 year mark and kind of gnarly. I will not worry about the created intention, as many have addtional bolts added for the benefit of the climbing community - you likely have no idea, as they existed before your time out here.
Many of the anchors at Acephale are also wobbly, rusted and the gold-shuts may not be the safest things out there - especially after a couple of decades. I also do this out of my own pocket and time, just as was done when Acephale and Bataan were built. Shep Steiner, Daren Tremain, Tim Pochay, Richard Jagger provide many of the classic routes most climb today, like Mirror Stage, Accursed Share; Nickel Bag, Altius, and the Combo with Johnstone on Jingus; Neoconstructionist; Irradicator, Girl Drink Drunk - no TABVAR existed back then so all the upfront funds were from me and a one nice climbing friend when i ran out of money - i think it was about k to get the originals built back then, and thousands of man hours of labour, cuts, bruises, close calls, grizzlies … plus i still had to work. But bolts are steel and the do rust and wear out - they need to be replaced and existing routes will need to be retrofitted before something bad happens.

Good luck! Send Crimes, it’s a fun and hard enough rig - Leblank