BTW - this is the right route of the WATER WALL drilled trio - established in 1988/1989. Shep’s Diner, The Resurrection and Crimes of Passion. SD and Rez were retro bolted with glue in’s and the original bolts are still there, as they are rusted into place. The retro bolter of SD actually placed a new anchor and sort of altered the line - to most they have no idea, as these things had been redpointed almost 20 years ago …

Yah we were in the caynon on that day. I forgot. Sorry. So many routes had been drilled in and around the same time.
I believe a couple of pockets were also drilled accross from WATER WALL on the Hemingway Wall, Tropicanano?

Many of the anchors at Acephale are also wobbly, rusted and the gold-shuts may not be the safest things out there - especially after a couple of decades. I also do this out of my own pocket and time, just as was done when Acephale and Bataan were built. Shep Steiner, Daren Tremain, Tim Pochay, Richard Jagger provide many of the classic routes most climb today, like Mirror Stage, Accursed Share; Nickel Bag, Altius, and the Combo with Johnstone on Jingus; Neoconstructionist; Irradicator, Girl Drink Drunk - no TABVAR existed back then so all the upfront funds were from me and a one nice climbing friend when i ran out of money - i think it was about k to get the originals built back then, and thousands of man hours of labour, cuts, bruises, close calls, grizzlies … plus i still had to work. But bolts are steel and the do rust and wear out - they need to be replaced and existing routes will need to be retrofitted before something bad happens.

The bolts you replaced before TAVBAR were placed wrong or water got at them? As TAVBAR has been around for sometime. I remember seeing a jar at the Hostell shop (when it was in that house) may not have been for TAVBAR but it was for bolts and such. Red heads who would climb without them.

I wonder how many route creators have gone and replaced all the manky bolts in the Ghost?

But thanks for the history and many great sport routes all the same.

The bolts were placed and torqued properly - just the fact about the WATER part of that wall - rusted and old style angers - the teardrop kind - SMC.

This is sport climbing and hitting the deck or a ledge is really not part of this style of climbing.

Man are you ever going to be busy fixing routes. I would start with True Grit at the very bottom or near anyhow.

Before Tavbar? I remember some of those buttons had major rust and most of the red heads but any of the regular bolts should have been able to handle about twenty plus years. I know the old style hangers had problems. Some of those old square hangers were soooo scary even without rust.(cold shuts) I had to re-write what I wrote as I was in a huge hurry to get to Vic. Sorry.
Cheers