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trent
Member
Posts: 170
Trent
Post Hard Slab Problems?
on: October 27, 2009, 19:45

Allo! It’s been awhile since I posted here, but I have a question…

What are the hardest slab boulder problems on the west coast?  ‘Hardest’ can be defined physically, technically, or mentally, of course, but when I think of hard slab problems there seem to be only three…

1) Black Slabbath (V7, although some dispute the grade)
2) Phat Slab Left (somewhere between V4 and V6)
3) Tim’s Farm Slab (Hard, and unrepeated, I suspect)

Of course there’s also some tall moderate slabs that are mostly scary, including…

4) KemoSlabby (approx. 18 ft.)
5) Slabotage (approx. 18 ft)

What am I missing?  Anyone? 

Also, as a further inquiry, has anyone ever tried any hard Font slabs?  What are they like?

Eternally curious,

T.

tedtiger
Member
Posts: 18
tedtiger
Post Re: Hard Slab Problems?
on: November 9, 2009, 19:16

Their are a few hard slab boulder problems in Ellison park near Vernon BC.  A few lines are still projects.  If you are in the area and looking for some hard slab boulder problems their is some potential here.

stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post Re: Hard Slab Problems?
on: November 11, 2009, 00:30

yes i do not boulder as much SS i would like , having said that there are numerous hard slab routes with sections of 18″ between bolts … magic carpet ride is on next summers tick list ( i say that every year)

black slabith is the best problem i have seen but there is a SICK 5.13 route to be claimed right smack up the prow wall …

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

matt
Member
Posts: 15
Matthew
Post Re: Hard Slab Problems?
on: November 13, 2009, 17:01

I believe there are at least 7 hard slabs in Squamish. The double double dyno slab in the North Walls. Masterbater. Black Slabbath. Luke’s slab on the road. The Broom which is most likely the hardest slab in squamish. Or the drowning grip some where in the v12 range but that’s closer to vertical then most slabs. Bali song direct is also quite hard.

As for tall ones There was Shelly’s slab on wormworld, but thankfully it’s grown over.

I found Desire 2 in the Northwalls but’s harder and scarier. I’ll happily show it to you Trent or your wife.

trent
Member
Posts: 170
Trent
Post Re: Hard Slab Problems?
on: November 20, 2009, 21:06

Matt - Where are Luke’s Slab and The Broom?  I’ve heard of The Broom but have no idea where it is…  I found a couple of hard-looking slabs at Godman too, but won’t have time to clean or do them before we move to NZ, unfortunately (unless we get a huge dry spell… :D …).

T.

steve townshend
Member
Posts: 20
steve townshend
Post Re: Hard Slab Problems?
on: December 4, 2009, 21:16

Ok, it’s not really a “problem” or a “route” but it’s a super fun and pretty hard, also super safe and easy to put a Top-Rop on…

The Bottom of DreamCatcher (5.14d), just the slab up to the rail.

it’s really easy to stick-clip up to the top of the slab (3rd bolt), and put a TR on the slab.  Very easy to “work”, and really cool climbing.  Sharma said it took him 3 days to do, but i think he just isn’t/wasn’t very good/experienced at slab climbing… a good slab-climber would probably on-sight it.  i did it 2nd try and i don’t think i’m that good at slab climbing.

It’s the most fun slab i’ve done around here.  too bad i’m too weak to do the rest of the route, ha ha!

Have fun out there!

postal
Member
Posts: 10
postal
Post Re: Hard Slab Problems?
on: December 6, 2009, 00:20

Is Leavenworth westcoast? Not really I guess….but….

I’d suggest The Hesitator - It’s only V2 but the last move will make you think for a few minutes!

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