Forum

Gripped » Gripped Forums » Rock » route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen

Pages: [1]
Presentational Image Author Topic: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post route cleaning - a disaster waiting to happen
on: January 19, 2010, 20:49

As of last year, I experienced this first hand when some friends were cleaning a route. My friends trundled some rocks off and inadvertantly scared the hell out of (close call?) a mentor, and sick Squamish legend only to tell him to fuck off during a spat. (from what i was told, I was not there). On this same route, I have photos of me rapping into this thing bolting some anchors and then came across a very large and loose ledge (it was later launched off and exploded into the forest). I was freaked to even stand on it. I did not even touch it and as a matter of fact, on route I replaced a basketball chunk of granite that teater-tottered: I rapped with it in my lap, and placed it on a safe ledge.

Lets face it, route cleaning on a 1000? face is ridiculously dangerous and can or will kill someone if you do not take the necessary precautions.

1) using bright yellow caution tape - flag areas in the danger zone (yeah it takes time)
2) post dates of activity on the approach trail (don’t be lazy, do this every day you clean)
3) don’t damage other routes for your own gain (thinking of the sketchy rats nest of rocks, branches etc left at the top of arrowroute when I topped out after Crap Crags was cleaned)
4) post it on this and other forums
5) THINK, before you act. Maybe you can live with it, but you won’t know until you killed someone.

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

stevenu
Member
Posts: 1
stevenu
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: January 20, 2010, 09:28

Hi Stoney. I know what you mean. I’ve often wondered about that when I climb at Squamish and there’s someoen cleaning. Very scary stuff. Seems pointless to clean a loose pitch to make it “safe” while squashing a bunch of hapless climbers. Anyone else have any problems?

markk
Member
Posts: 1
markk
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: January 20, 2010, 22:41

My climbing partner and I had the opportunity of almost dying when we were opening our packs under Grey Waves in the Bow Valley on Kid Goat.  There was a sudden crash above, and as we looked up the sky was filled with rocks.  The first ones started landing about 5 m away.  Needless to say, we made it, but one rock struck a tree that was between it and my partners head.

There was a sign on the trail (on sheet of paper held down with rocks), but as it was our first time there, we unknowingly split off the trail about 20 m before the sign.  There could have been a lot more clear markings right at the parking lot. 

The rocks were sent down by people cleaning a new route near Grey Waves.

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: January 26, 2010, 17:32

Hey Ben–

Dunno who your friends were who tried to kill the local Squamish legend and then got in a spat with him.  Last summer, while working on our new route on the Deputy wall, Mike Blicker, Dylan Connelly and I bombed the forest where Perry Beckham was walking to his project.  We did not tell him to f**k off, nor did we have a spat with him, and we apologised straight up.  Since then, we’ve been flagging, posting signs, and putting online warnings up.

The Access Society has put out a warning re: cleaning ethics etc, and most of us in Squamish get it– don’t damage people, trails or other routes.

chris

ps– the route is coming along (http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com) and after a day or two more of construction and bolts, we hope to start actually climbing the damned thing

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

stone_mason
Member
Posts: 132
stone_mason
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: January 28, 2010, 12:07

Funny, this story was quite different when it was told to me, sensationalized? Regardless it was not until this incident, was due care considered in your route development. However, your experience is not the only close call to happen in Squamish Chris, there have been several. The trail is right up against the base, at every crag/wall in Squamish.

I am referencing ALL new route development. As someone that has gone to the base to recover, I’d like to nip this one in the bud - if at all possible.

Cheers

————————————
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

John Muir

mstyles
Member
Posts: 15
mstyles
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: January 30, 2010, 04:38

chris, you did tell him to f-ck off the first time. tony and I both witnessed this haha. luckily, we had line of sight of him and delayed the bombing until after he and his group had passed.

the second time, you and Dylan nearly killed Perry while he was trying to get to his hand traverse. I had to speak to John Howe about this on your account.

and more recently, there was another issue with another party.

all these lessons summarized: clearly mark the trail in all possible areas, online and all access points at the trailhead, warning of extreme harzard / rockfall. Another friend was mentioning the fact that hikers would still come to the base of the routecleaning, even with the caution tape. Clearly mark the signs with extreme hazard to deter hikers from coming to the base. make the signs extremely visible as well.

-Mike

trad
Member
Posts: 106
trad
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: January 30, 2010, 23:10

all these lessons summarized: clearly mark the trail in all possible areas, online and all access points at the trailhead, warning of extreme harzard / rockfall. Another friend was mentioning the fact that hikers would still come to the base of the routecleaning, even with the caution tape. Clearly mark the signs with extreme hazard to deter hikers from coming to the base. make the signs extremely visible as well.

-Mike

Make sure you date them and then remove the signs after the fact so others have faith in what the signs say. kinda like Kiewit and those workers ahead signs when you know nobody is working ahead so keep on moving down the highway at 100K hr. Hoping nobody is really working down the highway.

Peace

harihari
Member
Posts: 305
chris
Post Re: route cleaning - a disaster waintintg to happen
on: February 8, 2010, 20:52

Blicker, you silly thing, I told Perry to “get the f*ck out of the way,” since I was about to launch an 800 pound missile at his head.  And I was panicking, having about 10 mm of a newly drilled shit bolt between me and a massively ugly fall.  So I didn’t tell him to f*ck off, and we didn’t have a fight.  Anyway, it’s all good, we’bve bene psoting loads of warnigns yadda.  Now lets get up there and finish the f**ker so we can actually climb it!

chris

chris stolz

Watch an 18-pitch free route go up at
http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com

Pages: [1]

Guest  

Show or hide header

Welcome Guest, posting in this forum requires an account.

If you already have one you can login below. Otherwise, you can register for free.





Please leave these two fields as-is: