The Riddle of the Sphinx
Story By Yuji Hirayama

In 1984 I discovered rock climbing at a ten square metre crag near Tokyo. Free
climbing was in its infancy in Japan and American-style trad climbing was the norm. From the beginning, however, I recognised the limitless potential of this style that allowed climbing without relying on gear. I had a feeling that it was the style that would be with me for the rest of my life.
I was right, of course, and I was soon climbing intensely, day after day. My climbing friends and mentors told me about their trips to the United States and their experiences in Yosemite. I was completely enraptured by....continued



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Grigri Belay Tips
This new Petzl video covers all the essentials for safely belaying with a Grigri. Petzl also highlights a new belay sequence, which improves safety by ensuring your hand never leaves the brake end of the rope. Mandatory viewing for every climber.    



world news
Aug 14, 2008 - Pringle Charms the Cobra
After coming within a few moves of sending Cobra Crack 5.14b last month, Ethan Pringle returned to Squamish and today bagged the third ascent of the painful overhanging finger crack. Pringle completed the route after six days of work and describes Cobra Crack as an “amazing line but so painful!” The route was originally climbed by Sonnie Trotter and was repeated earlier this summer by Belgian rockstar Nicolas Favresse.
Continued...

Aug 8, 2008 – Carpenter Nails Squamish Problems
Edmonton local Thirza Carpenter is demonstrating the fine form that won her the title of Canadian National Bouldering Champion. During her recent trip to Squamish, Carpenter dispatched No Troublems V9/10, Backseat V10 and came within one move of sending The Egg V11. Continued...

July 31, 2008 – Echo Wall Tumbles
Scottish climber Dave Macleod has added a new dangerous testpiece to his ticklist of difficult routes. Echo Wall is a 100m long route and consists of an easy 30m slab pitch followed by a 70m pitch of difficult and poorly protected climbing with serious ground fall potential at the end of the crux. Continued...

July 30, 2008 – Top U.S. Climber Doesn’t Climb Two of Canada’s Hardest Routes
After ongoing speculation and rumours about  his quick repeats of two of Canada’s hardest routes, American Ethan Pringle denies having climbed Cobra Crack 5.14b/c and Dreamcatcher 5.14d. “I just have to say that I have not completed the Dream Catcher,” says Pringle. “I came frustratingly close [on Cobra Crack], falling at the last hard move” explains Pringle.  Some climbers refuse to accept Pringle’s denials, however. “A friend of mine knows the girlfriend of the boulderer climbing on a nearby problem who saw him climb Dreamcatcher” claims a Squamish local who asked not to be identified.  “I just don’t understand why he won’t admit to climbing these routes” she continues. Whether Pringle will continue to deny future rumours of having sent hard routes remains to be seen. Continued...

July 28, 2008 – Manboy is Super
This weekend Steve ‘Manboy’ Townsend contributed to the long list of already established difficult routes in Cheakamus Canyon with his first ascent of Supermanboy 5.14c. The climb is located on the steep and imposing Big Show Wall and is a variation of the existing route Superman 5.14c.
Continued...

July 28, 2008 - Favresse Fires The Cobra
During his Squamish visit Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse bagged the second ascent of Cobra Crack 5.14b/c. The difficult overhanging finger crack was first climbed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and is recognized as one of the world's most difficult trad lines due to its sustained climbing and painful fingerlocks.
Continued...

July 17, 2008 - Pringle Hikes The Path
After months of being on the injured list, American climber Ethan Pringle bagged the second ascent of The Path 5.14 R at Back of The Lake, Lake Louise. The repeat came after just two top-rope rehearsal sessions and signals the return of Pringle to the elite climbing level.
Continued...

July 14, 2008 – Squamish Scandal
An upcoming closure of the Smoke Bluffs for commercial filming is causing a stir among the Squamish climbing community.
Continued...

July 3, 2008 - Nose Record Broken
The team of Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine set a new speed record for climbing the Nose on El Cap.
Continued...

June 25, 2008 - Germans Blitz Granite Wall
The strong German team of Stefan Glowacz, Robert Jasper, Klaus Fengler, Holger Heuber and Mariusz Hoffman recently completed one of the hardest big wall routes on Baffin Island. Continued...

June 16, 2008 – McClure Makes Third Ascent of Rhapsody
Steve McClure is unstoppable this season. Having completed numerous difficult UK routes, McClure turned his attention to Rhapsody.
Continued...

June 16, 2008 - McColl Places Third in Italy
This weekend Sean McColl demonstrated the form which is earning him the title of Canada’s best climber. Continued...

June 10, 2008 – Trotter Repeats Rhapsody
After four and a half weeks of battling hot weather and shredded skin, Canadian Sonnie Trotter bagged the second ascent of Dave MacLeod’s poorly protected, 5.14 testpiece Rhapsody. Trotter continues to climb the world’s hardest gear lines and this route adds to his impressive tick list.
Continued...

June 1, 2008 - Sharma Sends in Spain
Chris Sharma’s recent move to Spain has not hurt his climbing as he recently bagged the first ascent of his new project in Oliana.
Continued...

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