In 2009 the Piolets d’Or began recognizing climbers who have contributed to the sport of alpinism with the Lifetime Achievement Award, which was changed to the Walter Bonatti award in 2012.

Past recipients of the award are Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot and Kurt Diemberger, and in 2014, America’s John Roskelley will be awarded the Golden ice axe. The 22nd Piolet d’Or will take place from March 26-29, 2014, in Courmayeur and Chamonix Mont-Blanc. The list of 2013 Nominees will be published on the Piolets d’Or website on February 1, 2014.

John Roskelly


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1976 – North West Face of Nanda Devi, 7,816 m
1977 – First Ascent of Great Trango Tower, 6,286 m, with Galen Rowell, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek.
1978 – North East Ridge of K2, without supplemental oxygen
1979 – First Ascent of Gaurishankar, 7,134 m
1979 – First Ascent of Uli Biaho, 6,109 m, with Ron Kauk, Bill Forest and Kim Shmitz
1980 – West Pillar of Makalu, 8,481 m, summiting alone
1982 – South West Face Cholaste, 6,440 m
1989 – North East Face Tawoche, 6,501 m, with Jeff Lowe