Adam Ondra Talks Project Hard and 5.16
Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Project Hard at Flatanger in Norway on Aug. 3 and gave it a grade of 5.15d (9c).
Ondra has flashed 5.14d, established V16s, climbed all of the existing 5.15c sport routes and made the second ascent of the 30-pitch Dawn Wall 5.14+ in Yosemite.
The post-5.15d media craze is just beginning, but already The Guardian has done an extensive interview with Ondra, see the full interview here.
Ondra said in the interview, “Everyone knows what it means to run 100 metres in a world record time. Because grades in climbing are subjective, I am fan of making big gaps between climbing grades. Knowing it was so much harder gives me the courage to say it is the world’s first at this level (9c).”
He went on to say, “When I did this climb I did not feel it was at my absolute limit. I can imagine climbing a harder route. I think I can climb more at this grade one day and potentially harder.”
In an interview with Emontana, Seb Bouin, who is projecting Ondra’s Move 5.15b nearby, said after he watched Ondra’s send, “It was something amazing. I don’t think Adam is the strongest climber ever, if it goes down to muscles, but his style of movement is amazing. He climbs so precisely and sharp.
The best thing about him is his determination for his projects and ability to spend so much time on his routes.”
In the same interview, Ondra said, “This route is so psycho. In one single moment everything has to be perfect. Conditions, strength, clear head. Everything just so you can climb relaxed, because you know, you can’t climb it without risk.
“That’s impossible. I went to a maximum risk in many moves. I knew I can fall anytime in this knee rest, on the other hand I knew I’m not gonna do the next part without this few seconds of rest.” Full interview here.
And PlanetMountain.com had an early interview in which Ondra said, “Well Project Hard has about seven positions where I place a knee-bar and hang upside down. Hanging upside down is crucial as it’s the only moment when 99% of my body can be relaxed, except of for my calf.
“We’re talking about staying at a knee-bar for a couple of minutes, this is really intensive on just one muscle and so I did some special exercises that enabled me to stay longer at the knee-bar and give my arms a better chance of recovering.” Full interview here.
And on his sponsor Montura’s Instagram, Ondra said, “Felt like another ordinary day on the Project. It was hot, but the air was crystal clear and dry. I felt very little pressure and lot of psyche. Key ingredients for sending the world’s first 9c.”
Vist 8a.nu and navigate your way to Ondra’s page where you can see a number of his climbs with his thoughts.
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