Andy Genereux’s 2015 Yamnuska Update

Andy Genereux is one of the Rockies leading route developers and despite a major climbing accident in 2014, he managed to complete a number of projects this summer.

By Andy Genereux

Just a quick note to update some of the new stuff up on Yam from this past summer. Last year was a bit of a rough one after breaking my leg up on Missionary’s Crack. I needed two operations to get thing working and just over a year to fully recover.

That all said, I still completed three major routes on Yam this past season and several smaller projects in advance of the new guide coming out spring of 2016 for Yam. So after a tragic 2014, 2015 turned out to be one of my best years ever on Yamnuska. I regained my form, I think possibly climbing my strongest in several years.

The first project out of the gate was Third Time Lucky 5.11c, eight pitches of sustained 5.10 with half a dozen 5.11 bits along the way. Its a mixed protection route that scales the wall right of Missionary’s Crack. It offers excellent bolt protected face climbing with several crack sections requiring traditional gear. I think it might be one of my best efforts on the mountain at these grades.

I had started this line (first three pitches) back in 2013 as an attempt to repair Missionary’s Crack after the massive pillar collapse in 2009. After my accident realizing the upper wall out right of the upper corner system was an intriguing target and a much safer way to go.

Three days of rap building the upper five pitches then needing another big day to rope solo this rig. It was a little weird being back at the ledge where I had waited for heli-rescue just over a year earlier, June of 2014. The final result I feel makes for a fantastic route.

The second route I call Take Me To Church and is six pitches of steady 5.11 in the Corkscrew Area. It angles rightward and joins the Bolt Nazi at the crux pitch 5.11c/d providing a different finishing option for this heady pitch but is otherwise is an independent fairly straight line. Sustained climbing at upper 5.10 range with every pitch having a definitive 5.11 crux.

The route is supper steep and exposed through the middle. I think its another excellent route in the mixed protection motif. While in the area I also retrofitted the aid ladder on Corkscrew with new stainless steel bolts and replaced about half of the belays. Adding three new options to start up onto this old classic. On the route Marriage Rights I added an alternate two pitch finish going at 5.11a and 5.10c (mixed protection) to the top of the wall for an excellent more sustain better protected finishing option.

The third route was completed in the late fall in The Bowl Area and is called The Sword In The Stone 5.12a. This is a major five pitch mixed protection variation to the route Gray Scale. It offers steady 5.10 and bits of hard 5.11 climbing. It starts up on the first pitch of Gray Scale then heads directly up the wall to rejoin this route just below the crux then takes an independent pitch directly to the top of the wall.

There is still a section that I was unable to climb left go the Gray Scale crux that goes somewhere around 5.12+ that is bolted but I was unable to work out. As I was rope soloing, I opted to join he fifth pitch and finish via the crux on my earlier route which provided a more consistent grading with the lower pitches.

I also added three new routes to the Lost Relics Wall on The East End. they are F Is For Formidable 5.12a, (sport bolted) three pitches and Dirty Deed 5.11d, (sport Bolted) three pitches and Broken Rib 5.8, (mixed protection) two pitches.

Ravens End also saw four new pitches go in, three sport bolted routes two come in at 5.11+ the third in the 5.11- range and one 5.10 mixed protection route called The Finisher at the right edge of the sector.

There are now over 200 routes established on the mountain up from 134 in the 2006 guide. With the latest addition by Sonnie Trotter with his 5.14a variation to Blue Jeans the old girl has a whole new look from a climbers perspective.

This is the crown jewel for multi-pitch climbing in the Rockies and we climbers should celebrate her coming of age offering up many new possibilities at all grades so we can ply our trade on this wonderful vertical arena.

– Visit Genereux’s website for more updates and topos here. Read his 2013 article for Gripped Magazine about Yamnuska here.