Acephale has long been one of Alberta’s go-to sport climbing crags for strong climbers. There is a high concentration of 5.12s, 5.13s and 5.14s and a relatively short approach.
Local Becca Frangos has climbed a number of hard Bow Valley routes this summer and added Army Ants 5.13c to the list. She noted on Sendage.com after, “A route I had been eyeing up for a few years but never really gave any solid tries until this past week. Glad I put some effort into this route – was definitely worth it.”
Quebec climber Francois Bergeron has long been a force in the Bow Valley. About a week ago, he made the first ascent of Tribe’s Shaman 5.12d/13a, which is an extension of the classic Tribe 5.12.
West Coast crusher Tom Wright was visiting the area and sent one of the best 5.13ds in the valley, Endless Summer. He also ticked The Dark Half 5.13a.
Dexter Bateman has been pushing hard multi-pitch routes this summer with Sonnie Trotter climbed Flying Ant 5.14a, The Hood 5.13b, Naissance de la Femme 5.13b and Last Dance 5.13a.
Endless Summer (5.13d) is one of the absolute best routes at Acephale's Upper Wall. Big congrats to @tomhwright for taking down his dream route pretty darn quick!!! #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #sportclimbing #acephale #bowvalley @arcteryx @rhinoskinsolutions @flashedclimbing @maximropes @petzl_official