In 2001, Tommy Caldwell set a new standard. He was the first person to climb 5.13 on Longs Peak, aka the Diamond, with The Honeymoon is over. Now Caldwell and Joe Mills have free climbed the Dunn-Westbay, originally aided in 1972 at 5.10, A3+, by Jim Dunn and Bill Westbay.

The first pitch is 5.10+, the second 80 metre-pitch is 5.14a, the third 70 metre-pitch is 5.13a and the final pitch is 5.12b. Josh Wharton had free climbed the route a couple of years ago, but he had traversed around the direct-route. The new free climb uses about half of the free route Wharton climbed.

Joe Mills and Tommy Caldwell standing below the Diamond

Joe Mills and Tommy Caldwell standing below the Diamond


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