Canadian Philip Quade’s Summer 2016 Road Trip: Part One

Talk about a wild week. Since leaving Calgary last Sunday, I’ve seen sun, snow, rain and hail. Temps have ranged from -2 C to 30 C in just one week over four states. My first stop, at Yankee Jim Canyon, gave me time to unwind and get in the swing of things. The campground boulders at Canyon campground aren’t documented as far as I’ve found. A brief PDF topo on Yankee Jim boulders claims that there is no record of them. It was hard to beat rolling out of bed and having the boulders behind the fire pit, beside my truck and in every direction.

As I entered Wyoming, headed for Yellowstone Falls Erratic and Slough Creek boulders, the weather had other plans for my next stopover. Heavy rains hit as I entered the park and there were no signs of it letting up. So I aimed for Jackson Hole and Grand Teton, but got shut down by the weather again. As the sun set and still a few hours from Jackson, the snow started. I pulled off for the night, happy that I had a comfortable place to sleep in my truck that I rigged for camping this spring. In short, Wyoming shut me down. Jackson was wet and it was still raining when I arrived in the morning.

Had a stellar stop over in Yankee Jim canyon. The bouldering at the campground alone is worth the stop. Several sends this morning, including this sweet little thing! No tops or info on the campground boulders that I've found yet, info updates to come! Sloper and heel hook game is strong though! Yankee Jim Canyon Campground Boulders, near site 5, Montana. #climbing | #bouldering | #flashed | #climbing_pictures_of_instagram | #climbing_is_my_passion | #dirtbag | #roadtrip | #theradlife | #climbingnation | #skratchlabs | #skratchthesummit | #grippedmagazine | #lifeontheroad | #thisishowiconquer | #mtnops | #neverstopexploring | #doyouboulder | #abouttimetoclimb | #montana | #yankeejim | #livewild @icebreaker_ca | @grippedmagazine | @skratchlabs | @flashedclimbing

A photo posted by Philip Quade (@philip_quade) on May 24, 2016 at 3:08pm PDT

I made fast tracks for Twin Falls, Idaho, to check out Dierkes Lake. I found the area online, but no one seemed to know much about it. Turns out, the place is a hidden gem. At first glance Twin doesn’t look like much, but the scene is great, if you know where to look. I got one full day of climbing in – over 12 hours – with some morning and afternoon bouldering. I had a rest on the beach and then roped up with Tony Roberts, one of the driving forces behind the Dierkes Lake climbing areas. If you ever pass thorough or near Twin, you want to make a stop at Dierkes.

It wouldn’t be a climbing trip to Idaho without a stopover in City of Rocks. The rain returned, but I decided to head out. I connected with another climber and had a bit of an epic. The first bolt on our selected route was higher than most highball boulders I’ve seen, probably 12 metres. After a quick shower, a self-taught lesson in self rescue techniques, a beer and dip in the Durfee Hot springs, it was time to say good-bye City of Rocks. Next, I headed to Salt Lake City and Little Cottonwood Canyon.

The canyon is one of three major canyons near the Utah city and it has been humbling to say the least. It’s interesting to see the differences in grading between areas. Conditions yesterday were the best I’ve had yet. All-day sun, cooler temps high in the canyon mid-day and cool lower down as the evening approached. I had the chance to spend most of the day with local climber Chris Espinoza, who toured me around some of his favourite Little Cottonwood Canyon areas. Today is hot already, well before noon, but the rain is moving in. It will be a combination half rest, training and work day and exploration this evening when temps die down. Next up, I’m off to Colorado to climb with Sasha DiGiulian and other top American senders.

Having a blast up here in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The weather isn't sure what it wants to do… As is the theme of the trip so far. Yesterday gave us some great opportunities though! Photo: Chris Espinoza tackling "Bronson's Arête, V8 at the Riverside Boulders in Little Cottonwood Canyon. I've been pretty lucky to meet some super rad folks along the way, all super eager to show me their areas and favourite rock! Riverside Boulders, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Wasatch Range, Utah. #climbing | #bouldering | #riverside | #c_l_i_m_b | #flashed | #conquerthecrux | #climbclimb | #skratchthesummit | #rad | #utahisrad | #skratchlabs | #mtnops | #howiconquer | #livewild | #grippedmagazine | #liveoutthere | #littlecottonwoodcanyon | #climbutah | #wasatch | #saltlakecity | #theradlife | #roadtrip | #climbingnation | #abouttimetoclimb | @skratchlabs | @flashedclimbing | @grippedmagazine | @icebreaker_ca

A photo posted by Philip Quade (@philip_quade) on May 29, 2016 at 4:02pm PDT

– Philip Quade is a Calgary-based climber and photographer who is touring around North America for the summer of 2016. He will be visiting popular and off-piste climbing areas around the U.S.A and Canada. Stay tuned for weekly updates.