The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines.
According to 8a.nu, Daniel Woods has been on a sending-spree for the past couple of months. In January he spent time climbing in Penoles, Mexico where he sent two V13s, two V14s and made the first ascent of El Diablo, V15. Back in Bishop, California, Woods made the second ascent of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming, V15.
The winter conditions on Nanga Parbat have been harsh, heavy snowfall has created dangerous conditions. Three teams remain on the mountain, all vying to be the first climbers to reach the top of Nanga Parbat for its first winter ascent. Simone Moro and David Gottler have established Camp three, the Polish Team have been struggling above Camp Two due to bad conditions and soloist Danielle Nardi has reached base camp and is acclimatizing. For more information, visit Explorers Web.
Canadian Jon Walsh is climbing in Scotland and his first route was the third ascent of Ecstasy on Creag Meagidh with Nick Bullock. Iain Small and Tony Stone made the first winter ascent of Scansor, IX, 9, on Stob Coire nan Lochan. Andy Nisbet and Heike Puchan did the first ascent of Scare Bear, VI, 5. Simon Yearsley and Malcolm Bass made the first ascent of Gallifrey Groove, IV, 5, on Ben Nevis. Andy Nisbet and Dave McGimpsey made the first ascent of Stike 3, III, on Liathach. For more 2014 new routes in Scotland visit here.
Will Gadd, John Freeman and Sarah Hueniken are climbing at the now-famous British Columbia spray-ice destination, Helmcken Falls. Will Gadd wrote an update today, January 31, “Helmcken Falls 2014 Update: It’s on! Helmcken is such a unique place, the variables here are just way more complicated than in normal climbing. The spray cone (the big cauldron of ice at the base of the falls that ‘catches’ the spray) hasn’t formed as well as it has in previous years, but it’s growing daily right now. Getting high on the wall is trickier as there is more spray up there and less ice, but it works if you’re careful and prepared to bail when it gets wet. We’re trying a mixed line connecting traditional water ice stalactites instead of the spray ice, and man oh man is it good! I seem to always say this, but the climbing here is just the best in the world. You have to work for it, it’s an ‘alpine’ environment full of hazards, but the climbing makes up for it if you can dodge the falling icicles, crevasses, spray, etc. etc.” Gadd, Freeman and Hueniken are hoping to establish at least one new line in the impressive cave.