Dan Beland has sent Solid Gold 5.14c at Cathedral in Utah. In March, Beland sent Golden for a Moment 5.14b at the same crag.
After his Solid Gold send, he wrote, “The first day I stepped into Cathedral I saw this line and knew I wanted to at least try it. Here we are, a month later and it actually went down.
Redpointing near your limit can be an epic roller coaster of emotions – from excitement about new high-points and micro beta refinements to frustration and full-on rage about low-points, foot slips, physical+mental exhaustion and crap conditions. You know you can do it, but everything needs to be perfect. Perfect warm-up, perfect execution, perfect resting on-route, perfect mindset every step of the way from leaving the ground to clipping the anchor. . Yesterday I found myself at the last bolt on Solid Gold (5.14c). Everything had gone perfectly. I was through the crux and shaking out on this crappy ledge with the anchor dangling 8ft above, guarded only by one more reachy and gymnastic boulder problem (V4ish?). I was pumped, but I focused on my breathing and managed to calm down. But as my pump decreased, so did my focus and my mind started wandering. As I set off for the chains I put my right foot in the wrong spot, then my left hand somehow missed the next hold and I went airborne. Queue emotion: rage. . The projecting roller coaster is just one of the many reasons I love climbing. All of those ups and downs along the way are just adding to the glory of the send when it finally comes along. Set your sights high and the process pushes you to reach for that next level of strength, precision and focus. . Back after it tomorrow, and the next day, and the next… until I clip that anchor. . @butoracanada @petzl_official @onwardup_official #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #livingthedream #tryhard #cantstopwontstop #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #utah #utahisrad #iloveclimbing #noplacetoofar
“It’s still hard to believe. Lots and lots of tries. The locals all seem to think this is probably the second ascent. Rad that Daniel Mirsky, who did the first ascent back in 2013 was there to see my send.
“It’s for sure one of the most amazing routes I’ve ever climbed.” Beland has ticked at least two other 5.14c sport routes, Supermanboy at Chek near Squamish and Stressful Day at the Office at Horne Lake.
If I could change one thing to make the already 5-star route "Golden for a Moment" (5.14b) any better it would be to remove the sit-down, hands-free, 100% rest half way up the wall. Lucky for me, that route already exists! Here I am busting into the start of the hard climbing on "Solid Gold" (5.14c). 📷 @kimstagraham.mcg . Solid Gold avoids the hands-free pod on Space Shuttle by continuing directly up the face, eventually connecting with Golden right as the climbing on that route gets serious. It's the most relentlessly sustained route I've ever tried. It's SO RAD and I'm getting close! . #climbing #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #livingthedream #getoutside #climbinglife #utah #utahisrad #sportclimbing #retirement2017 #roadtrip @petzl_official @onwardup_official @butoracanada @climbbutora