Storm Creek Headwall parallels the famous Stanley Headwall, one valley south, in B.C.
The Storm Creek Headwall has a number of classic ice and mixed climbs. Climbers have added a number of moderate to hard lines over the years. In 2004, the routes Xena M5, 100 m, Cosban M5, 100 m, and Puzzle M4, 80 m, had first ascents. In 2011, Raphael Slawinski climbed The Peach WI5, M8, 110 m, on natural protection, upping the ante of local mixed climbing.
In 2014, Jay Mills and Eammon Walsh skied into Storm Creek to look for some mixed routes. Walsh has spent multiple days in the area and knows it well. The 2014 conditions have not been the best and the routes are not yet climbable.
As a consolation, Mills and Walsh climbed a new 70-metre route, “The easiest route in the valley,” Mills said. Depending on conditions, the approach can take two to three hours. “We called it Difficile Monster, it’s a joke because it was really easy, WI3, and Walsh and I have previously named routes Facile Monster and Moyen Monster. I’d never go all that way just to climb it,” said Mills.
Watch this video by Joshua Lavigne, a day on Xena and Cosban.
Source: Jay Mills, Owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides