Everest’s Southwest Face Climbed 40 Years Ago Today

On Sept. 24, 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston made the first ascent of the Southwest Face of Mount Everest.

The strong British team were the sixth attempt on the face and after their successful summit had to endure a bivy over 8,000 metres.

Expedition leader Chris Bonington hand picked the team based on previous trips. Also on the trip was Mick Burke, Peter Boardman, Paul Braithwate and Nick Estcourt.

Two days after the successful summit, Boardman and Sherpa Pertemba, the expedition Sidar, reached the summit. On their descent, they passed Burke who was heading up. Burke and now-Canadian Rob Wood had made the first British ascent of The Nose in Yosemite.

Sadly, Burke died on the mountain that day. He was last seen near the summit and his body was never found.

The first attempt on the wall was by a Japanese team who attempted a left trending line. The 1971, 1972 and 1973 attempts all took a right variation.

Bonington’s 1975 expedition took the original 1969 and 1970 route attempted by a Japanese team, which he said was the obvious weakness. The direct route up the rock bands has not been climbed.

The Queen sent a message to the team offering her warmest congratulations on a “magnificent achievement.”