Five Classic B.C. Routes to Climb This Autumn

The summer is over, but in many parts of Canada that means perfect sending temps. British Columbia had a warm and muggy season, so the cooler temps will be a welcome relief for many.

Be sure to pack some warm layers for the longer routes. Descriptions and topos can be found for most online. Here are five fun routes to climb this fall and short videos to go with them.

Test of the Ironman is a 35-metre 5.11b on the Great White Wall in Skaha. Like most climbs on the wall it is a high quality line. You start up a mellow slab before clipping the first of 12 bolts up a striking prow.

Exasperator is a classic 5.10c at the base of the Grand Wall in Squamish. At 45 metres, most climber split it into two pitches, but some link both. Best summed up as a technical finger crack with foot smears and bomber gear.

Takakkaw Falls is a 10-pitch 5.7 in Yoho National Park. While the rock isn’t always the most solid, there is no better position in the B.C. Rockies for a car-to-car climb in a day. The crux is a left-facing corner and the highlights are the roaring waterfall and tunnel pitch at the top.

Star Check is one of the coolest climbs between Squamish and Whistler. You rappel down to a rushing river and climb four pitches up to 5.9 along a bolted arete. There is a low bolt count, but the route is not run-out. A great day for you and a new-to-multi-pitching friend.

Baywatch is a must-climb 5.11a on the above-the-water crag Waterworld near Revelstoke. It climbs three pitches up the Gangplank wall, which is accessed by four rappels. The pitches go 5.11a, 5.10b and 5.6 and the route is fully bolted. The rock is solid and offers great crimpy rails and fun moves.