Home > News

Fjordguard is a New Squamish Crag With 5.12 Gear Routes

In 2015, we reported about a new route called The White Raven that Taran Ortlieb sent at 5.12b with gear to four inches. The route is on a new wall that Paul McSorley has been establishing for some time. Just left of Raven is the stout Beef Eater 5.12a on gear and left of it is a 5.11c sport route called Lemmy.

McSorley added route information to the SquamishClimbing.com forum and said,  “The cliff is very featured, catches afternoon sun and dries quickly. The Roof Charmer is super fun, #justtheguys and Mary Mary 5.11b have thin crimp cruxes and Lemmy is tech/physical. Beef Eater is a bit spicy and White Raven is burly.” For photos and topos visit here.

McSorley and partners also reported about the addition of two sport routes to an area known for its ice climb Nintendo 64. They recleaned an old John Howe route called Strenotechnic 5.11a and sent the new Atari 5.11a and Highway 99 5.12b? Visit here to see photos of the two walls.  A third crag in the area called the Golden Nugget has a number of hard routes, check it out here. All three crags are found across the highway from Nightmare Rock.

Taran Ortlieb on White Raven 5.12a. Photo Drone Shot
Taran Ortlieb on White Raven 5.12a. Photo Screengrab from drone

 

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – March

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there