Fred Beckey turns 91.
Born on January 14, 1923, Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey has become one of the most influential climbers ever. In 1961, Beckey played a large role setting the stage for hard alpine routes in Canada with the Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos and the Beckey/Chouinard/Doody on the north face of Mount Edith Cavell.
“Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness. He was noted as ‘one of America’s most colorful and eccentric mountaineers,’ and is unofficially recognized as the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. In addition to being the author of the Cascade Alpine Guide series, Beckey is also the author of Mountains of North America, The Range of Glaciers: Exploration and Survey of the North Cascades, and a personal narrative, Challenge of the North Cascades.”
Watch this short film on Fred, written and narrated by John Long.
Some of Beckey’s first ascents.
1939 Mount Despair, North Cascades.
1940 Forbidden Peak, North Cascades – with brother Helmy, Lloyd Anderson, Jim Crooks, and Dave Lind.
1946 East Ridge Devils Thumb, Alaska with Bob Craig and Clifford Schmidtke.
1947 North Peak, Liberty Bell, North Cascades.
1948 North Ridge of Mount Baker, North Cascades Fred Beckey, Ralph and Dick Widrig.
1954 Northwest Buttress to North Peak, Mount McKinley, Alaska (May 27) with Donald McLean, Charles Wilson, Henry Meybohm and Bill Hackett.
1954 Mount Deborah with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm.
1954 West Ridge Mount Hunter (Alaska) – with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm.
1959 Yocum Ridge, Mount Hood, Oregon, USA with Leo Scheiblehner.
1961 North Face of Mount Edith Cavell, Canadian Rockies, Canada with Yvon Chouinard.
1961 Beckey-Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Canada with Yvon Chouinard and Dan Doody.
1963 Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse, British Columbia, Canada with Steve Marts and Eric Bjornstad.
1963 West Buttress (IV 5.8 A1), Musembeah Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA (September) with Layton Kor.
1967 El Matador (NCCS IV, A3), Devils Tower, WY. FA with Eric Bjornstad.
1968 Direct East Buttress (IV 5.8 A4), South Early Winter Spire, North Cascades, WA. FA with Doug Leen.
1968 South Face (III 5.8 A1), Cathedral Peak (Okanogan), North Cascades, WA. FA with Dave Wagner, John Brottem and Doug Leen.
1968 Northeast Face, Mount Hooker, Canadian Rockies, Canada. FA with John Rupley.
1970 Beckey’s Spire aka Christianity Spire, Sedona AZ.
1996 Mount Beckey, Cathedral Mountains, Alaska, USA – 1996, with John Middendorf and Calvin Hebert.
Watch this short film produced by Patagonia.