Hard Rockies Send by Zak McGurk at Acephale

In the summer of 2014, Josh Muller sent a Lev Pinter project at Acephale and Zak McGurk just got the second ascent.

By Josh Muller

Zak (Midnight) McGurk took down the unrepeated Acephale line called First Flight 5.14c, one of the country’s hardest routes, in fading light on one of the last days of the summer.

McGurk first attempted the route in July and with quick progress he realized First Flight was attainable this year.

McGurk, known for his toughness in chilly temps, was able to push this season longer than most, which allowed for this historical send.

In 2013, Pinter, one of Calgary’s strongest climbers, bolted the project. I broke a couple holds on the direct start, which made the route nearly unclimbable. I then redirected the route through another 5.14c of mine called Prime Time.

First Flight climbs through a powerful double-gaston iron-cross into 20 metres of pumpy climbing to the upper 5.13+ crux.

It’s followed by technical and insecure face climbing to a dicey 5.11 slab finish. Good job to McGurk for the big send and his first 5.14c!

– Read about Muller’s first ascent of First Flight here.