Hazel Findlay is no stranger to Squamish with many hard first ascents and sends over the years. The strong British climber just made the first free ascent of Tainted Love aka Northern Soul 5.13dR.

The hard line can be found left of the wild North Star 5.13b in north gully of The Chief above town. The thin that offers little room for protection is found at the back of a burly stem corner. See what Findlay says about the serious route below.

I did it! Whoop. So desperately… In the heat and the smoke. This route has the ability to completely wipe your memory of beta (since there are almost no holds and only one obvious feature). I feel like it was a team ascent with Neil Dyer inspiring me to go up there and belying me a tonne. We called it 'Tainted Love aka Northern Soul' after the song and the feeling of loving something like climbing but also kind of hating it sometimes (when your legs are burning and you feet hate you and you've forgotten whether to stem or to bridge.) I'd say it's 5.13d R placing the gear, 8b, or E8 6c. It's all on gear and placing the gear is definitely cruxy (tiny wires). I really hope someone repeats this thing because the climbing is crazy cool and I feel like this kind of technical but powerful climbing is a dying art. #fuckingbrits #burningbridges #themythicalbeing #smokeshow #slammedopen thanks Jonny Baker for all the shots.

A post shared by Hazel Findlay (@hazel_findlay) on

Findaly became the first woman to send a British grade E9 in 2011 with her send of Dave Birkett’s Once Upon a Time E9 6c.

She was also the first British woman to free El Cap and has since ticked three routes: first female free ascent of Golden Gate in 2011, Pre-Muir Wall in 2012 and Freerider in 2013.

In Squamish, she made the first ascent of Adder Crack 5.13a in 2012 and sent the local test-piece 69 5.13b/c. In 2017, she sent Mind Control 5.14c in Spain.

Findlay’s new route is can be found across from Angel’s Crest below the third summit. You can rappel into it if you know where to look.


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