Josie Hetyei has become the first Canadian woman to climb 5.14b after sending one of Horne Lake’s hardest routes.
By Jamie Chong
Josie Hetyei started working ADATO last year after sending many of the other 5.14s at Horne Lake. She redpointed Northern Man last October, which is the beginning of ADATO into the end of Jesus Save the Pushers 5.13a. The next logical project was ADATO proper.
Hetyei is the best knee-bar climber I know. She can knee bar anything. Her core strength is amazing and she can rest and relax in positions that I can barely even get into. So naturally Horne Lake, with it’s tufa limestone climbing is one of her favourite climbing areas. To work this route she would do at least three-day trips to Vancouver Island per week. This adds up in cost because B.C. Ferries is quite expensive. The cost of this redpoint was probably somewhere around $2,000.
ADATO stands for Another Day At The Office and was first climbed by Mike Doyle 10 years ago. It follows one of the steepest sections of the cave at Horne Lake and has multiple cruxes.
On Sendage.com Hetyei wrote: “In 2004 i belayed Mike Doyle on his near redpoint of ADATO and never imagined I could one day try it. Now, this moment, a selfish passion, but I have more than lived: two-and-a-half months, three trips per week, stitches, antibiotics, money, dedication, great friends, and love.”
Hetyei is a climbing fanatic. She is outwardly passionate about climbing and it only takes a few minutes of talking to her to realize that. She’s the type of climber that will spend days (weeks, months) figuring out the best way to do every move. I’m sure when she redpointed, she climbed it perfectly – no mistakes. If something doesn’t feel right while she’s climbing, she’ll stop and figure out the move over and over again – leads to long belays.
I sadly wasn’t with her when she sent, but I talked to her briefly about it. She said that the conditions during the day were hot and that she didn’t have any intention of even trying the route. She did a lap on Save the Pushers (long 5.13a), which she normally never does to warm up. Usually it’s a couple 5.11s, then straight to the project. The send was near the end of the day when the conditions suddenly seemed to get a lot better. She got on ADATO and felt pretty good on it, then sent second try that evening. It’s a classic surprise send, when expectations are so low that you have no internal pressure which magically allows you to climb your best. I’ve experienced that state-of-mind myself in many of my sends, so I have no doubt those circumstances contributed to her success.
I’m super proud of Hetyei – I know no other climber who is as dedicated to her projects. I have no idea what she will work on next, but hopefully something closer to home!
Watch Steve Townshend on ADATO:
-Jamie Chong is one of Canada’s strongest climbers. He is based on the West Coast. In 2011 he started the website Sendage.com, be sure to check it out and become a member if you’re not already.